IMAGE  EVALUATION 
TEST  TARGET  (MT-S) 


h 


// 


y. 


.A* 


:/, 


1.0 


I.I 


11.25 


lii|M    |2.5 

■50   "^^     MSB 

MUi- 

iiiiim 

U    IIIII16 


V] 


^ 


# 


^^.^ 


"^V^'^ 

''T' 


■?»• 


/ 


'/ 


///, 


Photographic 

Sciences 

Corporation 


23  WEST  MAIN  STREET 

WEBSTER,  N.Y.  14580 

(716)  872-4503 


m 


iV 


iV 


'.^ 


-^ 


^\  '^\ 


<* 


#> 


CIHM/ICMH 

Microfiche 

Series. 


CIHM/ICMH 
Collection  de 
microfiches. 


Canadian  Institute  for  Historical  Microreproductions  /  Institut  Canadian  de  microreproductions  historiques 


Technical  and  Bibliographic  Notes/Note*  technique*  et  bibliographiques 


Th 
to 


The  Institute  has  attempted  to  obtain  the  best 
original  copy  available  for  filming.  Features  of  this 
copy  which  may  be  bibliographically  unique, 
which  may  alter  any  of  the  images  in  the 
reproduction,  or  which  may  significantly  change 
the  usual  method  of  filming,  are  checlced  below. 


Coloured  covers/ 
Couverture  de  couleur 


I      I    Covers  damaged/ 


D 


Couverture  endommag4e 

Covers  restored  and/or  laminated/ 
Couverture  restaurAe  et/ou  pelliculAe 


I      I   Cover  title  missing/ 


Le  titre  de  couverture  manque 


I      I   Coloured  maps/ 


0 


Cartes  gAographiques  en  couleur 


Coloured  ink  (i.e.  other  than  blue  or  black)/ 
Encre  de  couleur  (i.e.  autre  que  bleue  ou  noire) 


I      I   Coloured  plates  and/or  illustrations/ 


D 


D 


Planches  et/ou  illustrations  en  couleur 


Bound  with  other  material/ 
ReliA  avec  d'autres  documents 


Tight  binding  may  cause  shadows  or  distortion 
along  interior  margin/ 

La  reliure  serr^e  peut  causer  de  I'ombre  ou  de  la 
distortion  le  long  de  la  marge  intirieure 

Blank  leaves  added  during  restoration  may 
appear  within  the  text.  Whenever  possible,  these 
have  been  omitted  from  filming/ 
II  se  peut  que  certaines  pages  blanches  ajout6es 
lors  d'une  restauration  apparaissent  dans  le  texte, 
mais,  lorsque  cela  dtait  possible,  ces  pages  n'ont 
pas  6tA  film^es. 

Additional  comments:/ 
Commentaires  supplimentaires: 


L'Institut  a  microfilm*  le  meilleur  exemplaire 
qu'il  lui  a  At6  possible  de  se  procurer.  Les  details 
de  cet  exemplaire  qui  sont  peut-Atre  uniques  du 
point  de  vue  bibliographique.  qui  peuvent  modifier 
une  image  reproduite,  ou  qui  peuvent  exiger  une 
modification  dans  la  mAthode  normale  de  filmage 
sont  indiquAs  ci-dessous. 


□   Coloured  pages/ 
Pages  de  couleur 


D 
D 
0 
D 
D 


D 


Pages  damaged/ 
Pages  endommagAes 

Pages  restored  and/or  laminated/ 
Pages  restaurAes  et/ou  pellicul6es 

Pages  discoloured,  stained  or  foxed/ 
Pages  dicoiortes,  tachet6es  ou  piqutes 

Pages  detached/ 
Pages  d^tachdes 

Showthrough/ 
Transparence 


I      I    Quality  of  print  varies/ 


QuaiitA  InAgaie  de  I'impression 

Includes  supplementary  material/ 
Comprend  du  materiel  supplAmentaire 

Only  edition  available/ 
Seule  Mition  disponible 


Pages  wholly  or  partially  obscured  by  errata 
slips,  tissues,  etc.,  have  been  refilmed  to 
ensure  the  best  possible  image/ 
Les  pages  totalement  ou  partlellement 
obscurcies  par  un  feuillet  d'errata,  une  pelure, 
etc..  ont  6t4  filmtes  A  nouveau  de  fagon  A 
obtenir  la  meilleure  image  possible. 


po 
of 
fill 


Or 
be 
th 
8i( 
oti 
fir 
8i( 
or 


Th 
sh 
Til 
wl 

IVIi 
dil 
en 
be 

rig 
ret 
m( 


This  item  is  filmed  at  the  reduction  ratio  checked  below/ 

Ce  document  est  filmA  au  taux  de  reduction  indiquA  ci-dessous. 


10X 

14X 

18X 

22X 

26X 

30X 

-- 

v/ 

12X 


16X 


20X 


24X 


28X 


32X 


The  copy  filmed  here  has  been  reproduced  thanks 
to  the  generosity  of: 

Harold  Campbell  Vaughan  Memorial  Library 
Acadia  University 


L'exemplaire  film*  fut  reproduit  grAce  &  la 
gAnArositA  de: 

Harold  Campbell  Vaughan  Memorial  Library 
Acadia  University 


7ii9  images  appearing  here  are  the  best  quality 
possible  considering  the  condition  and  legibility 
of  the  original  copy  and  in  keeping  with  the 
filming  contract  specifications. 


Les  images  suivantes  ont  At6  reproduites  avec  le 
plus  grand  soin,  compte  tenu  de  la  condition  et 
de  la  netteti  de  l'exemplaire  film*,  et  en 
conformity  avec  les  conditions  du  contrat  de 
filmage. 


Original  copies  in  printed  paper  covers  are  filmed 
beginning  with  the  front  cover  and  ending  on 
the  last  page  with  a  printed  or  illustrated  impres- 
sion, or  the  back  cover  when  appropriate.  All 
other  oiiginal  copies  are  filmed  beginning  on  the 
first  page  with  a  printed  or  illustrated  impres- 
sion, and  ending  on  the  last  page  with  a  printed 
or  illustrated  impression. 


The  last  recorded  frame  on  each  microfiche 
shall  contain  the  symbol  — »>  (meaning  "CON- 
TINUED"), or  the  symbol  V  (meaning  "END"), 
whichever  applies. 


Les  exemplaires  originaux  dont  la  couverture  en 
papier  est  imprim6e  sont  fil:n*s  en  commenpant 
par  le  premier  plat  et  en  tr.rminant  soit  par  la 
derniire  page  qui  comporte  une  ompreinte 
d'impressicn  ou  d'illustration,  soit  par  le  second 
plat,  selori  le  cas.  Tous  les  autres  exemplaires 
originaux  sont  filmte  en  commenpant  par  la 
premiere  page  qui  comporte  une  empreinte 
d'impression  ou  d'illustration  et  en  terminant  par 
la  dernidre  page  qui  comporte  une  telle 
empreinte. 

Un  des  symboles  suivants  apparaftra  sur  la 
dernidre  image  de  cheque  microfiche,  selon  le 
cas:  le  symbole  — ►  signifie  "A  SUIVRE",  le 
symbole  V  signifie  "FIN  ". 


Maps,  plates,  charts,  etc.,  may  be  filmed  at 
different  reduction  ratios.  Those  too  large  to  be 
entirely  included  in  one  exposure  are  filmed 
beginning  in  the  upper  left  hand  corner,  left  to 
right  and  top  to  bottom,  as  many  frames  aa 
required.  The  following  diagrams  illustrate  the 
method: 


Les  cartes,  planches,  tableaux,  etc.,  peuvent  Atre 
filmds  d  des  taux  de  reduction  diffdrents. 
Lorsque  le  document  est  trop  grand  pour  Atre 
reproduit  en  un  seul  clich6,  il  est  film6  i   partir 
de  Tangle  supArieur  gauche,  de  gauche  A  droite. 
et  de  haut  en  bas.  en  prenant  le  nombre 
d'images  ndcessaire.  Les  diagrammes  suivants 
illustrent  la  mdthode. 


1 

2 

3 

1 

2 

3 

4 

5 

6 

Rambles  in  an  Ancient  Colony 

terra  nova 


:^ 


Book  L 


To  THE  Old  Capitals  by  the  New  Way 


James  Rupert  Eluottt 

MC3M[ 


i^ii^^c  /v 


CU^i>^^'  >  ^'^^-^^ 


Moonlight  on  tiie  Huiiibcf.      By  S    H.  Parsoiib 


Ramhlks  in  an  Ancient  Colony 

By  tiik  Banks  and  the  Bergs 

Terra  Nova 


iooh   I 


To  THE  Old  Capitals  by  the  New  Way 


BY 


JAMES  RUPERT  ELLIOTT 

Author  of  "American  Farms."  "Rambles  m  Merrie,  Merrie 
England,"   etc. 


PUBLISHED    BY   THE   AUTHOR 


BOSTON 
A.D.  MCM 


/. 


CONTENTS 

Introduction 

Ill 

The  Approach  by  Cabot  Straits 

By  Cape  Ray  and   by  Treaty  Coast  to   Bay  of  Islands   .     .       7 

Two  Charming  Days  at  a  Newfoundland  Outport       ...     36 

Crossing  the  Ancient  Colony  by   Rail 

Arrival  and  First  Impressions g 


,^/j^V^^" 


REMARKS 


The  illustrations  of  this  work  :'.re  from  photo^jraphs  by 
Miss  Holloway,  Mr.  James  Vey.  Mr.  Parsons,  Mr.  Grey, 
Mr.  Brotherton,  and  others,  whose  Ivindness  has  rendered  it 
possible  for  the  author  to  place  before  the  public  satisfactorily 
the   scenery  of  Newfoundland. 

J  R  E 


:^;»Ur*i»'--' ., '     >^''' 


INTRODUCTION 


^ 


It  is  only  recently  that  the  rich  resources  of  the  "  Old 
Colony,"  discovered  by  Cabot  four  hundred  years  ago,  have 
become  known  even  to  the  inhabitants  of  that  country.  And 
because  it  appears  so  new,  and  even  undeveloped  in  many 
respects,  its  age  and  the  veneration  due  it  are  appreciated  by 
the  student  and  close  observer  only. 

Newfoundland  contains  intensely  interesting  areas  for  the 
researches  of  the  geographer,  the  geologist,  and  the  metallurgist, 
and  also  possesses  many  delights  for  the  artist  and  poet,  who 
cannot  fail  to  be  inspired  by  the  beauties  of  its  scenery.     Here, 


ni 


TO  THE  OLD  CAPITALS  BY  THE  NEW  WAY 

also,  the  lover  of  sports  or  the  leisurely  feasting  on  the  riches 
of  nature,  will  find  delightful  recreation  by  forest  and  stream. 
In    and    about    Newfoundland,  close  up  among  the    floating 
glaciers,  are  places  where  nature  displays  the  wildest,  boldest 
forms,  and  then  again  charms  one  with  her  serenity  and  love- 
liness.     Here    it    is  one    finds  those    legends  and    stories  which 
sometimes    greatly   amuse,  and    then    again    stir    the    very  soul 
with  their  thrilling  adventures.     It  is  because  of  these  histories, 
one  may  gather  by  travel  among  the  beautiful  scenery,  that  its 
peculiar  and  wonderful  objects  are  doubly  interesting.     So  that 
the    earnest    scholar    visiting    Newfoundland    for    philosophical 
research  will  not  only  learn  of  the  remarkable  productions  and 
enjoy  them,  and    also  enjoy  to    the  full    the  wild  and    beautiful 
scenery,    but    will    acquire    new    knowledge    about    its     unique 
customs  and  language,  and  will  learn  much  of  the  peculiarities, 
traditions,  sorrows,  faiths,  and  hopes  of  this  people. 

Newfoundland    has    been,  and    is,  thought  of   by  the  world 
at  large  as  an  island  far  out  in  the  wild  ocean,  new,  primitive 
and    undeveloped.       This,  in    a    way,    may    be    true  ;     yet    the 
thoughtful  student  who  makes  a  tour  of  the  country,  travelling 
Its    long,    rugged,   jagged,  weather-beaten    mountains;    its   great 
expanses  of  straggling  forests  ;  its  worn  water-courses  •  its  acres 
of  beach  rolled  in  from  the  sea  ;  its  settlements  abounding  with 
rehcs  and  traditions  of  days  long  gone  by  ;  its  huge  old  weather- 
stained    business  establishmems,  denoting  the  customs  of  past 
times,  will   be   greatly  impressed  with    the    thought   of  its  un- 
known past -its  unwritten  and  forgotten  history. 


iv 


To  THE  Old  Capitals  by  the  New  Way 


TO  THE  OLD  CAPITALS  BY  THE  NEW  WAY 


THE  APPROACH    BY  CABOT   STRAITS 


On  an  evening  in  the  early  part  of  September  we  step  on 
board  the  S  S.  "  Bruce,"  at  North  Sydney/,  Cape  Breton,  to  take 
passage  to  Port  aux  Basques  ;  a  port  at  the  southwest  ex- 
tremity of  Newfoundland,  close  in  beside  Cape  Ray. 


Light  house  at  Entrance  to  Port  aux  Basques 

We  are  apt  to  consider,  by  what  we  have  believed  good 
authority,  that  between  Cape  Breton  and  Port  aux  Basques  lies 
the  highway  of  the  seas,  over  which  only  the  daring  and  adven- 
turous would  care  to  journey.  But  here  we  are  tonight  confi- 
dently looking  forward  to  a  speedy  and  comfortable  passage 
over  the  Cabot  Straits  ;  full  of  anticipation  of  what  is  to  be 
learned  of  the  land  discovered  four  hundred  years  ago  by  him 
whose  name  these  Straits  bear. 


TO  THE  OLD  CAPITALS  BY  THE  NEW  WAY 

We  are  now  out  upon  this  water,  with  the  Gulf  of  St.  Law- 
rence at  our  left,  and  the  limitless  expanse  of  the  Atlantic,  and 
the  starry  uni<nown,  to  our  right.  At  eleven  o'clock  we  seek 
our  state-rooms,  and  find  bright  electric  lights  to  show  us  that 
our  rooms  have  all  the  appointments  of  the  present  century. 
And  musmg  on  what  Cabot  would  think  of  all  this  were  he  jour- 
neying  about  these  coasts  again,  we  repose  ourselves  to  rest. 

The  sea  is  smooth,  and  all  the  circumstances  reconcile  us 
to  await  m  peace  for  whatever  the  fates  have  in  store  ;  and  we 
are  soon  fast  asleep. 

At  four  in  the  morning -the  very  peep  of  day -we  are 
awake,  and  immediately  seek  the  deck,  for  we  are  nearing  the 
coast,  and  do  not  want  to  miss  the  first  sight  of  it. 

A  little  more  than  two  years  ago  we  passed  this  way  up  the 
Straus,  on  a  voyage  from  Liverpool  to  Montreal.     We  remember 
that  on  that  day  the  fog  was  so  dense  that  nothing  was  seen  of 
the    coast.      How  different  is    this  !      This  glorious    daybreak  • 
The  myriads  of  stars  are  still  twinkling  brightly  overhead.     In 
the  east  a  radiant  streak  of  red  is  extendmg  landward  and  sea- 
ward, ..>  ...      noint  to  increased  brilliancy.     Soon  we  are  able  to 
trace  the  irregular  rocky  coast ;  following  ,t  around  to  the  left 
a  view  is  obtained  of  the  end  of  the  mountam  range  which  forms 
Cape  Ray.    Far  out  upon  the  end  of  its  rocky  pomt  is  the  beacon- 
hght.  still  faithfully  at  its  good  work  of  guiding  the  mariner 

The   welcome    harbinger  of    day  is  coming  apace,  and   the 
streak   in  the   east  grows   wider  and  more   beautiful  in  colour 
Gradually  it  is  shaded  delightfully  from  the  dark  yellow  to  the 
brilliant  orange,  while  the  rocky  mountains  by  the  coast  assume 
all  the  shades  of  the  lead  colour  by  the  water  side,  to  the  richest 


THE  APPROACH  BY  CABOT  STRAITS 

purple  at  the.r  summits  ;  blending  all  this  glory  with  the  splen- 
dour of  the  yellow  sky  above,  and  making  it  all  a  gorgeous 
picture.  "The  great  beacon  fire  of  the  sun"  burns  out.  the 
mountain  tops  are  gilded,  and  the  orchestra  of  the  wilds  begin  to 
hum  their  welcome.  The  little  homes  by  the  sea  _  the  village 
of  Channel  and  the  more  scattered  hamlets-  sparkle  in  these 
first  rays  of  the  rising  sun,  as  if  they  too  were  on  fire,  but  that 
other  beacon  upon  the  rocks  at  the  Cape  has  given  up  its  effort. 
It  is  indeed  true  that  no  atmosphere  is  so  conducive  as  this 
for  those  marvellous  gradations  of  colour  which  are  dependant 


SS.  "Bruce"  arrived  at  Port  aux  Basques 

upon  the  peculiarly  rare  air  of  these  latitudes.  Mariners  have 
told  us  before  of  the  Gulf  of  St.  Lawrence,  and  its  brilliant  sky 
effects,  but  the  half  could  not  be  told.  Would  not  a  Ruskin 
exult  in  this  ! 


TO  THE  OLD  CAPITALS  BY  THE  NEW  WAY 


The  fleet,  staunch  ship  bears  us  rapidly  in  by  the  coast ;  and 
now  we  are  passing  that  beacon  which   marks   the  way  to  the 
entrance  of  Port  aux  Basques.     In  this  beacon  we  find  an  inter- 
esting object,  not  only  pleasing  to  the  eye,  but  because  it  repre- 
sents   a    structure    from   which    issues    at    regular    intervals,   in 
stormy  weather,  a    danger  signal    to    anxious    mariners    by  the 
coast ;  an  automatic  gun,  which  ever  does  its  duty,  whether  the 
keeper  be  awake  or  sleeping.     We  are  informed  that  this  one, 
and  the   one  on   Cape    Spear,   near  the    entrance    to    St.  John's 
harbour,  are  the  only  structures  of  the    kind  on  this  side  of  the 
Atlantic. 

We  glide  smoothly  and  rapidly  to  our  moorings,  and  thus 
ends  a  very  pleasant  and  comfortable  trip  across  the  Cabot 
Straits. 


TO  THE  OLD  CAPITALS  BY  THE   NEW  WAY 


BY    CAPE    RAY  AND    BY   TREATY  COAST  TO 

BAY   OF    ISLANDS 


Having  passed  through  the  formality  of  a  customs  entry. 
WL-  find  ourselves  located  on  the  "  Cross  Country  Train."  The 
only  incident  to  disturb  our  serenity  of  mind  during  this  usually 
trying  ordeal  is  an  attempt  on  the  part  of  the  "  Bruce  "  luggage 
department  to  hoist  our  heavy  trunk  about  thirty  feet  out  of  the 
hold  of  the  ship  to  the  wharf  by  the  trunk  strap,  although  we 
had  simply  placed  it  around  the  trunk  as  a  safety,  should  the 
lock  give  way.  They,  it  seemed,  chose  to  consider  it  put  there 
for  their  convenience.  Fortunately,  however,  the  strap  broke 
before  the  trunk  left  its  resting  place.  Nevertheless  this  is  but 
a  trifle,  so  must  not  disturb  us  thus  early  in  our  Cross  Country 
experiences.     We  expect  to  enjoy  them  very  much.i 

Our  train  (the  "  Bruce  Train,"  or  "  Cross  Country  Train  -) 
is  one  that  performs  a  large  number  of  important  functions,  and 
in  its  own  way  is  equipped  for  the  various  needs  of  a  long 
journey,  where  little  for  comfort  or  convenience  is  supposed  to 
be  found  at  the  stoppings.     Its  arrangements  are  peculiar.     We 

NOTE  i.-rROM    NOTES   BY   CROSS   COUNTRY   TRIP,  DECEMBER   22,   ,8,9. 

in.t  -,' Jl'vf^  ^'^  "l!'"^'  °"'  ^'^  telescope  bag  by  its  strap,  and  away  the  strap  goes 
just  as  the  one  about  our  trunk  did  on  that  September  morning.  Another  and 
greater  subject  of  .nterest  is  the  effort  of  the  customs  officer  of  the^ort,  as  he  pro- 
Tht;  r  \^  rf  ^  '^"^'''I'y  "f  °"'"  '=^'•8°'  ''^^""'='1  f°-  St.  John's,  into  bond 
ma^'nwket  of  that'c^r^r'  turkey  and  other  meats  to  go  with  us  for'the  cEns  - 
TuL^t\\  K   u   I-     ^°  f'"'  "'^"'^   properly  m   bond,  so  that  that  barbarism. 

uchTV  'tfJ"'   perpetuated,   fifty  gummed   t.ck  .ts,   of   about  ten  squaTe 

nches    have  each   to  be  placed  upon  these  fifty  cases.     The  officer  manfully  perl 
he  h"::  f '^'  ^*"^f-^"'  five  hundred  inches  of  gummed  surface  is  made  ready  for 
the  boxes  by  one  wilhng  and  hvely  tongue  on  this  frosty  morning. 


TO  THE  OLD  CAPITALS  BY  THE  NEW  WAY 

note  this  fact  in  a  general  way  during  the  few  moments  of  our 
change  from  the  boat  to  the  train,  and  when  starting  off.  For 
our  attL-ntion  is  soon  directed  to  the  glimpses  which  we  catch, 
as  we  move  out  upon  our  journey,  of  the  great  works  of  nature 
displayed  here  upon  every  side. 

It  is  a  unique  country,  not  to  be  forgotten,  —  although  we 
have,  to  our  regret,  but  a  few  instants  to  look  at  any  particular 
picture.  The  rock  and  water  scenes  vary  so  constantly  upon 
this  irregular  coast,  and  the  road-way  winds  about  in  such  a 
circuitous  manner,  that  we  find  ourselves  entertained  by  a  veri- 
table, ever-changing  panorama. 

A  few  miles  to  our  left  stretches  out  that  extreme  end  of 
Cape  Ray,  wht-iu   its   light    stands       that    light   so  often   eagerly 


Scene  by  Say  Mountains 

looked  for  by  the  mariner  who  comes  this  way  in  his  coursing 
up  and  down  the  gulf.     Near  us  to  the  right  is  the  lofty  range 

8 


BY   CAPE    RAY   AND    BY   TREATY   COAST 


of  Kay  Mountains,  which  extend  far  away  into  the  interior  of 
the  island.  Their  towering  rock  peaks  are  landmarks,  and  give 
a  general  ,dea  of  the  course  we  are  running  ;  though  we  see 
then)  .n  so  .nany  different  aspects,  and  with  such  differing  com 


Sleeper  in  a  Drift 

binations  between -- one  moment  on  the  sands  at  the  sea-side 
then   climbing  the   rock   hill,  and  then  a  stretch  of  heath    rolls' 
between  us.     Now  on  our  left  are  the  broad  waters  of  the  gulf 
rolling  their  tidal  way  far  beyond  our  vision. •• 


NOTE  ..  -FKOM  NOTES  ON  CROSS  COUNTRY  rR„..  MAY  ,,  ,8,g 

aux   Basques  for  help^^.a  w^Ter   anc  coal      r  ,       '"^'""   1"'^  ^one  on  to   Per, 

and  qu.te  near   the  coaTl   Jhlll   Cf        fu-  "^  ^^  "''  "^"^  ^^^  ^^V  Mountains; 

been  blown  upon  the  ra    ^7,^/;^,,^.^^';;;,'^-  snow  blockade,  the  drifting  sands  had 

were   sweeping   down   f-om   the   r^onr^t  T"^  th.  trams.      Now  squalls  of  snow 

-.a.kd>dasbUand!hu"apctrec?;";:nfc;:^ofl'r         '*  T^^  '   '^^^^  '^^>'-  ^'"^ 
Not    far  from    here  was   th^  see    e   of  ,h  "  -        »  ^r"'"""'^  ^'""'^  '"  P^^««'-^^d. 

blown  twenty  feet  from  th.  track   hv  one  of    h.  ^   r       .tT""""'',  ^^^^"  »  '"i"  ^^^ 
down  the  Rav  Mountain  t'orges  ""''  '"^^'^  ''"°^"'  ^hich  came 


TO  THE  OLD  CAPITALS  BY  THE  NEW  WAY 


These  glimpses  remind  us  that  we  are  still  by  the  coast.  It 
IS  but  a  few  instants  only  that  we  can  have  such  assurances  at 
any  time,  for  the  rocky  points  and  massive  barren  islands  are 
constantly  cutting  off  the  more  extended  vision. 


v 


'f'lfA' 


, ,    *:';  ■ 

■  :p'^:v 

•r. 

■»       ■'■' 

i 

:  t'f    ■  ' ' 

Tlie  Siifrar-Loaf,  Ray  Mountains 

What  rocks  •  What  sharp,  unrelentmg  points  pierce  the 
sea  .  And  then  what  perfect  havens  behind  !  It  is  indeed  a 
wonderful  piece  of  God's  creation. 

An  hour  has  sped  rapidly  since  our  departure  from  Port  aux 
Basques,  and  so  far  we  have  only  seen  rock  and  water  scenery 
But  we  are  now  makmg  a  plunge  inland,  to  a  wooded  country. 
The  birch,  the  spruce,  and  the  larch  are  becoming  stronger  and 
more  lofty,  indicating  that  the  soil  must  be  deep  and  good,  and 
not    too    rocky.     And    there    are    splendid  -  almost    tropical- 

lO 


BY   CAPE    RAY   AND    BY  TREATY  COAST 


feathery  ft- rns  behind  the  deep  evergreens.  And  what  beautiful 
wild  Howers  in  the  open  spaces  !  And  what  rich  colouring  !  The 
wild  weeds  are  almost  gross  in  their  immense,  broad,  dark 
leaves.  Hert-  Nature  seems  to  be  making  a  special  effort  to 
display  the  rich  and  tht-  strong  in  vegetation.  In  the  midst  of 
these  bounties  and  this  luxuriant  growth,  this  beautiful  day,  it 
IS  hard  for  one  to  believe  the  assertions  made,  that  this  is  a 
country  where,  for  a  considerable  portion  of  each  year,  existence 
for  man  is  intolerable. 

As  we  want  to  hx  these  particular  spots  upon  our  memory, 
and   have  something  which  will  recall  all  this  beauty  to  us  again 
,so  far  we  have  found  no  railway  literature  to   supply  any  clue 
tn  our  whereabouts),  we  venture  to  ask  the  conductor,  who  is 
polite,  and   apparently  very  obliging,  if  he  has  anything   in   this 
line.     With  a  beaming    countenance    of    friendliness    the    good 
fellow  produces    a  very  long    sheet  of  legal    cap,  with  a    type- 
written time-table,  giving  the  names  of  all  the  various  stations 
upon  the  548  miles  of  road  over  wh  oh  we  are  to  travel  to  reach 
St.  John's.     It  IS  perused  with  much  interest,  for  the  names  of 
the  stations  are  quite  new  and    strange,  suggesting   many  con- 
jectures as  to  their  origin,  and  what  circumstances  made  them 
a  mark   in   the   history  of  the  country.      And  we   devoutly  hope 
that  this  history  may  be  perpetuated  through  these  very  names.' 

NOTE   3        NOTh.    FROM    DIARY   ON    CROSS    COUNTRY   TRIP,  MAY,  .899. 

,h.  M.T*'/''  '^'f  '■''"^'  '^'■''.'''"ate  tnne-tabk-,  which  describes  the  chances  of  travel  bv 
the  Newfoundland  Railway.  We  are  not  pleased,  however,  with  the  liben  ha^ 
someone  has  taken  ,n  altering  so  many  of  the  names  of  the  stations  It  makes 
us  wonder  why  people  persist  in  changing  the  histo-ic  names  of  places,  which 
commemorate  events  in  the  history  of  ,he  country,  to  others  of  little  or  no  import- 
ance, with  apparently  the  one  object  ot  pleasing  a  fancy.  Government  might  take 
a  hand  to  advantage  as  regards  this.  ^ 


II 


TO  THE  OLD  CAPITALS  BY  THE   NEW  WAY 


mak        he  1     T     '"  °"  "'"^'  '"'■  "'^""■-  ""'  -"""«-  n-" 
done      'rr'  '"'"'""°"  °'  "  ''™'--     ^°  ''-^'  "^  has  already 

m°!h,       ?     ?  "'""""  ""  "^■"■">'  '^"^'^""      We  wish  ,ha.  we 

mightinakethewholetrip  with  hill,      Whii 

"I    Willi  null.     While  we  runimatp  thno 

tne  route,  --  a  twenty. nine  hours'  ride. 


View  of  Codroy  Station 
12 


BY  CAPE  RAY  AND  BY  TREATY  COAST 


assert.  Upon  the  top  is  mounted  a  cross  —  so  much  the  better  for 
the  station  it  is  presumed.  Horses  and  waggons  are  evidently 
owned  here  ;  for  a  little  distance  away,  fastened  to  a  tree,  is  a 
veritable  horse  with  his  waggon  ;  the  first  out-fit  of  this  kind 
which  has  been  seen  since  landing. 

Quite  a  number  take  the  train  at  Codroy,  about  fifty  labour- 
ers, and  of  particular  note,  a  Roman  Catholic  priest,  and  a  doctor. 
And  now  we  begin  again  to  become  interested,  and  to  enquire  of 
those  whom  we  have  for  travelling  companions.  This  becomes 
an  important  matter  where  the  passengers  are  quite  limited  in 
number,  and  may  be  one's  familiar  neighbour  for  several  days. 
The  conductor  very  complaisantly  informs  us  that  one  of  the 
owners  and  managers  of  the  road  is  with  us  in  another  com- 
partment ;  and  also  a  distinguished  gentleman  and  his  wife  - 
the  gentleman  a  successful  merchant,  or  merchant's  confidential 
agent.  There  is  also  among  us  a  gentleman  bound  for  a  point 
up  the  coast,  who  is  in  charge  of  a  gang  of  men  witli  appliances 
for  conducting  an  oil  enterprise.  We  are  told  that  the  railway 
magnate  of  the  Island  is  a  partner  in  this  worthy  adventure. 
The  oil  operator  is  communicative,  and  tells  much  about  his 
experiences  in  former  undertakings  of  this  kind.  He  will  soon 
leave  us  and  take  sail  for  further  up  the  coast.  We  question 
how  long  it  will  be  before  his  enterprise  has  passed  the  pioneer 
stage  to  become  a  subject  for  the  clutches  of  a  greedy  Rockefeller 
or  his  agent,  out  of  which  a  fat  margin  may  be  made  to  bribe 
legislators,  and   hypnotise   Divines. 

We  find  the  doctor  an  agreeable  companion,  and  we  are  soon 
engaged  in  conversation  with  him.  He  came  down  the  coast 
from  Bay  of  Islands  to  Codroy  in  order  to  extend  his  professional 

13 


TO  THE  OLD  CAPITALS  BY  THE   NEW   WAY 

services  to  a  young  man  who  had  just  been  seriously  injured  by 
a  railway  accident.  It  seems  a  long  distance,  but  doctors  are  as 
rare,  or  nearly  so,  as  horses  in  this  country. 

The  leading  members  of  the  communities,  at  the  out- 
harbours,  have  to  guarantee  a  considerable  amount  to  the  phy- 
sician before  he  will  venture  to  settle  among  them.  A  good 
portion  of  their  services  will,  however,  go  for  little  or  no  return 

aboutT'  '''  '"'°'  ""'^'  "  °"^  ''  ^^^^^'-"^^^  ^-  -nformation 
about  this  interesting  spot,  and  he  seems  to  understand  it  quite 

scientifically,  and  administers  a  wholesome  and   liberal  potion - 
but  not  a  counter-irritant. 

We  must  not  lose  touch  with  him  ;  for  we  have  learned  that 

parL'n"  :  "'"  •'"''  '^°"  '°"^'  ^°  '^  °"  ^^^  "^'^^  ^^^  °^  ^he 
parson,  the  magistrate,  and  the  doctor.     And  we   find  they  are 

all  very  important   individuals   in   this  corner  of  creation       this 
venerable  Colony.' 

A   Church    of    England    clergyman   joined    us    at    Port    aux 
Basques.     From  him  we  gain  valuable   information  about  this 

^Fir./r''   '■    "''°^''    '^''°'^    ^'^"^^    COUNTRY    UIARY    MAY    ,doa 
wh.ch   havl  taS;r^S:  — '^,--[-'Hn,  con.pan,o„;on  one  o^  these  tr.p, 

and  super.n.eneiant  of  the  Church  of  England  schn  ?  TT'°''''  '^  '^'  ^specto 
a  very  intelligent  irentleman  -.nZ.  ^"S'a'i'i  schools  of  the  Colony.  He  annears 
affairs,  of  vvhl-h  K^rn.^on  .t  gt^e""  the^Zt "'""'  ^"'  "^  ^""^^'''>'  ^^  cX,i 
man  IS  from  the  eastern  part  of  Nova  S-nnlM!''"''','"."  '"""■  ^""'her  gentle- 
■n  connection  w,th  the  iron  n°  nes  ot  th  ?  •  ,  ^rT'"^  ^"'  ^'^^  ^^'-^  °"  business 
aimly,  from  Michigan  and  tl  e  L.t  ^  mineral  Isle.  And  another  is,  with  his 
Whitney  areas  m  th.s  count  v  hint  n'^T' ^'"""^'  ''&'""  Prospecfng  on  the 
^om  British  Columbia,  where  ie  harh"  "  "'"'°""  ^'"'^'^  ^''''^'^''  Anothe  is 
I^ac.fic.  Besides  these,  There  are  two  n"  f^"^^^?"'"^  "^"^  Seal  Fishery  of  he 
journey  to    Europe.     Then  in  anothe'car^sT  N^ '""'n^    >'"''    returning 'from    a 

inrwi'thV""^"'  ^"^^'-    'helatewar      we%a,^fm""''"'^^"'^°   ^^''^^^   '"  ^^e 
■ng  with   his  regiment       the  eic-hth       l^r.    »  ,     "^  °"'>'  '*  ^^w  days  ago  march- 

H  usTr!r"'^  A"'^"^   ^--^    aVtK    hours  o,'  t^hT'tr  n'°'""       '°  °"^  cLve'rsaTon  's 

o    ,h  u°^^"^'  '°  'his  island  of  the  fisherv  L    if  ""^   ^^f ''^''-     '^^'^   '«   another 

the  north -men  of  such  wide  e.^^^iS^r^^I^^'tie;;:;— ^rij^:^  '"^"^^ 


BY  CAPE  RAY  AND  BY  TREATY  COAST 


coast.  We  learn  through  his  conversation  that  even  here,  so 
far  from  the  busy  world,  zealous,  earnest  followers  of  Christ 
have  thought  there  were  human  beings  worth  labouring  among, 
and  human  souls  to  save. 

Although  between  the   settlements   in   the  summer  the  only 
mode  of  travel  :s   by  water,  in   the  winter  h   has.  in  most  cases 
been  by  land  (in   some   the   only  way),  the   rivers,  the   harbours 
and  the  bays  being  all  froxen  over.     Then  the  clergyman's  power 
of  endurance,  his  courage,  his   faith,  his  love   for  his    Master's 
vv-ork.  and  his  brother's  eternal  good  are  sorely  tried. 

We  are  told  of  how.  many  years  ago  in  this  neighbourhood 
a  clergyman  of  the  EngHsh  Church  by  the  name  of  Eoland  while' 
leaking   his  way  from   settlement   to    settlement,  in    one  of  the 
cruel  storms  which  sweep  this  coast,  perished   from  exhaustion 
and  cold.  ■ 

Think  of  a  parish  work  extending  over  a  wild   country,  fifty 
or  a  hundred   miles,  and   only  here  and    there  a  bit  of  road  over 
which  a  carriage   or   sleigh  can   be   conveyed.      Think  of  a  tramp 

danger  was  apprehended  bv  hi>.  L  ^  T.      7       t  '"^'''rowers  are  soon  extinct.      No 

St.   George.  -settle. nents,    hrst    of    Channel,    and    afterwards    of    Bay 

Rev.  Wr^S::;iSwan=^a"onte^^';:i  ^L  f'''"'  ■■?    Newfoundland, 
twelve  years  arduous  service   m   the  n  l^sio.  of  rh  ,      ""u'  ""^  J"^"'  '^^^'  ^^'" 

conveying-   him    home     dte^a   v,  .f       '"^'°'\"f  Channel,  with  two  others  who  were 


15 


TO  THE  OLD  CAPITALS  BY  THE  NEW  WAY 

Of  eight   or  ten   miles  over  a   barr-.n  waste,  in   a   blinding  snow- 
storm, and  the  night  coming  on. 

Many  thrilling  tales  are  told  of  how  the  early  missionaries 
of  the  Cross  have  laboured,  have  endured,  and  have  finally  given 
their  lives  in  sacrifice  for  their  work  of  love." 

At  forty-sevt^n  miles  from  Port  aux  Basques  the  clergyman 
of  the  Church  of  England  parts  from  us.  He  has  six  miles  to 
walk  in  order  to  reach  the  next  scene  of  his  priestly  labours. 

It  is  now  ten  o'clock,  and  we  are  stopping  to  take  water  for 
the  engine  in  the  depths  of  a  fine  hardwood  forest.  This  would 
be  a  choice  spot  for  the  settler  to  make  his  start  ;  building  his 
cabin  exactly  where  the  tram  must  stop  for  water.  Here  are 
stumps  of  trees  lately  felled  which  measure  three  feet  in  diam- 
eter. We  leave  our  car  while  the  train  stands,  to  pluck  a  leaf 
from  a  huge  weed.  The  trefoil  leaf  spreads  out  eighteen  inches 
by  eighteen  inches. 

A  start  is  made.  It  is  greatly  up  grade.  We  have  learned 
that  our  tram  travels  up  and  down  hill  a  great  deal  ;  all  around 
the  hills,  too.  so  that  it  appears  sometimes  as  though  our  engine 
must  be  turned  abcut  and  returning.  We  have  not  gone  very 
far  before  the  train  i.  brought  to  a  standstill,  but  not  by  the  will 
of  the  train   officials.      We   cannot  proceed,   so    back   the   whole 

NOTK  .  -_NOTBS  ON  ^^^S  n.OM  ST^  JOHN  S  TO  POHT  .UX  BASQUES,    ' 

the  cJ::,.^^^^^'^,  '^C'E^^t  Z.:l:'r  r""'^^'  Jeno„.natio„s  of 
trine.     One  appears  to   be  express  Lh^ter.n  'I'^ciu.s.on  on  pomts  of  doc- 

heard,  so  we  Vet  the  full^,1vant ,  J^'^f  ,?  -^  '"''^'''-     ^"^^^^  ^°  "°'   ^'n^    beinP 

heretic.  This  ,s  onlv  on,  -^nl-  ^  'n  their  op.n.ons.  We  like  the  candour  of  the 
student,  as  he  con"es  mo  .  a^id  ^u're  nT'""°".  °'  '^""  "^^  ''^°f°'"^^*  -^^  =^-'0- 
torms  less,.n  his  hear  ^  ^n  fix  ,  ,""  '""^°'''T  T^  "'"  ^"'''  Master,  con- 
K.ves  to  the  creature  To  nMsnre,  r  K  '^•'^'^''^''  '^"^  possibilities  that  all  //,,. 
grandeurs.  ,s  g.ven  to  no  one  "'"'''  '"''  '^'^  ^'^I^"^^'  '^^  .^or.es  and   the 

16 


BY   CAPE    RAY  AND    BY   TREATY  COAST 


goes  for  a  good  start  from  the  hill  we  left  behind.  Off  again, 
and  up  to  the  oprosite  hill-top  at  full  speed,  and  soon  we  are 
whirling  through  most  delightful  scenery.  At  the  right,  now 
and  again,  are  distant,  but  fine  views  of  the  lofty  Ray  Mountains, 
mostly  immense  bare  rocks,  naked  as  when  first  thrown  into 
these  great  winnows  :  sometimes  with  deep  gulches  or  ravines 
indenting  their  massive  sides,  where  a  stunted  soft  wood,  and 
bush  life  are  seen.  Now  and  then  a  lake  is  passed,  resting  by 
the  base  of  these  towering  rocks.  All  the  lakes  are  called 
ponds  here. 

One  wishes  that  these  fertile  forest  spots  might  always  be 
such  a  delightful  variety  to  this  new,  old  country;  but  in  time 
the  fire  will  sweep  past,  and  destroy  them,  or  the  short  sighted 
settler  will  not  rest  content  to  clear  only  that  which  he  wants 
for  cultivation,  but  he  will  cut  away  so  much  that  the  strong 
winds  (that  will  then  have  their  way)  will  do  the  rest,  and  his 
crops  will  be  blown  down,  and  the  days  will  be  rougher,  and  the 
spring  and  summer  will  be  shorter;  and  he  may  rue  the  day  he 
sought  a  home  here. 

Thus  it  has  been  elsewhere,  and  so  it  may  be  in  this  place. 
This  is  the  time  to  provide  against  unnecessary  destruction  of 
this  kind. 

Near  Robinson's  Head  is  a  fine  view  of  the  entrance  to  Bay 
St.  George.  And  resting  half  way  up  a  mountainside,  across 
an  arm  of  water,  we  catch  a  glimpse  of  a  prettily  situated  village 
clustered  about  one  large  church,  which  it  is  presumed  is  Roman 
Catholic.  Most  of  the  communities  about  the  coasts  seem  to  be 
of  one  religious  faith.  The  strongest  must  survive,  and  the 
weakest  die  out,  or  migrate.     All  deviations  from  the  principal 

17 


TOTHE  OLD  CAPITALS  BY  THE   NEW  WAY 

rel.g.on  ,„ust  be  of  a  privat.  character,  The  very  next  com- 
inun.ty  may  h,,  d  a  tctally  (iUicrcnt  cast  of  religious  thought 
and   practice. 

As  the  run  ,s  made  beside  Kobiusons  Brook  or  River - 
and  then  upon  a  high  elevation  farther  on.  there  is  a  line  view  of 
the  vale  of  the  kob.nsoa  District,  of  the  sweep  of  land  lying 
beyond,  and  of  the  range  ot  rocl:y  hillocks  far  out  by  the  sea. 
By  our  track  the  soil  appears  d.ep  and  fertile,  and  not  too  stony 
'or  stren,ih.the  huge  boulders  scattered  through  this  section 
of  the  country  being  the  only  apparently  useless  element. 

The  river,  .uui  brooks  are  very  numerous  along  this  part  of 
the  coast,  ami  m  this  immediate  vicinity  is  excellent  trout  fish- 
ing.     Perhaps  no  better  is  to  be  found  anywhere. 

At  this  season   these  water-courses  aie  not  carrying  a  heavy 
flow  of  water,  but  their  broad  bottoms,  the  heaps  of  stones  piled 
up   here    and    there,   and    the  jagged    banks,   all   indicate    that   at 
t.nu.s  great  forces  of  water  How  down  from  the  lofty  mountains 
The    huge    ma.ses   of   snow   which    rest    upon    these    mountain 
ranges   m  winter   mus.   thaw   with   great   rapidity  when   exposed 
to  the  rays  o.   the  warm  spring  sun.      Even    here   the   sun  shmes 
very  intensely,  so  we  are  told,  so  intensely  that  the  rocks  become 
hot  with   us    heat.      Crabb  s    Brook,  which  we  are  passing,  must 
sometimes  be  a  great   rapid    river.      And   now  we  are   climbing  a 
h-.vy  grade  beside  a  deep  ravine,  each  new  view  of  the  beautiful 
panorama  becoming  more  interesting  and  delightful 

Near  Robinson's  Head  hes.  so  far  as  they  can  ascertain  by 
prospecting,  one  of  the  principal  coa,  deposits  of  the  Colon^f 
Mr.  .  P.  Howley.  P.  C.  S..  director  of  the  Geological  Survey  of 
New.oundland.  made   the  ofhcial  report  of  the  nine,  or  ten,  coal 

i8 


BY   CAPE    RAY    AND    BY   TREATY    COAST 


TO  THE  OLD  CAPITALS  BY  THE  NEW  WAY 


seams  in  these  rcKions.  varying  from  one  foot  two  inches  to  five 
feet  four  inches,  and  of  fairly  good  quality.     Of  this  he  said  :  ~ 

"  Altogether,  the  coal  seams  contained  in  St.  George's  Bay 
trough,  that  have  as  yet  been  discovered,  aggregate  about  twenty- 
seven  feet  in  thickness.  *  >'  *  To  illustrate  the  importance  of 
what  such  information  would  mean,  it  may  be  stated  that  an 
aggregate  of  twenty-seven  feet  of  coal,  provided  the  seams  main- 
tained their  ascertained  thickness  throughout,  should,  for  every 
square  mile  of  superficial  area  they  may  be  found  to  underlie, 
contain  25,920,000  tons  of  coal." 

At  Red  Rocks,  near  Cape  Ray.  is  a  bed  of  copper,  and  very 
large  and  valuable  gypsum  deposits  are  found  about  the  Codroy 
district,  and  St.  George's  Bay." 

In  connection  with  our  geological  enquiries  we  ask  the  oil 
operator  if  there  is  not  coal  in  the  vicinity  of  his  oil  discovery. 
He  replies  :  "  No.  not  necessarily.  In  Russia  there  are  no  indi- 
cations of  coal  where  the  best  oil  wells  are  located." 

We  are  now  told  that  all  must  now  take  a  look  at  the 
"  Horseshoe,"  for  we  are  at  Fischel's.  The  "  Horseshoe  "  is  the 
name  for  a  very  decided  turn  in  the  road,  and  we  twist  and  turn 
m  a  horseshoe  shape  by  a  bridge  suspended  above  the  tree  tops 
around  and  over  a  deep  gulch,  at  the  bottom  of  which  is  Fischel's 
Brook.  As  we  sweep  down  by  the  side  of  one  nearly  perpen- 
dicular mountain,  we  look  across  the  deep,  beautifully  timbered 
gully,  and  see  the  picturesque  bridge  over  which  we  are  to  pass. 

Pay,  was   lately  leas^^'a'^a'^e'nt:!  S"  f^^SSefwS   ^"°'-  "'^  °^°^^^'^ 
^t  .s  stated  that  $20,000  will  be  expended  next  t^lr  '*'"°""'  '°  *30.ooo. 

v.ding  facilities  for  working  this  quarrv   and     h?n  '"  "T'"^  "machinery,  and  pro- 
tU.e.     Many  .ore  leases  a^e  eithl!^  trifen^-r'a^^^rfL'?:  tlf^-lTe  Z^'''  '^"^"- 

20 


BY    CAPE    RAY    AND    BY   TREATY    COAST 


TO  THE  OLD  CAPITALS  BY  THE  NEW  WAY 


and  swung  around,  parallel  to  us,  is  the  road  by  which  we  are 
to  climb  the  side  of  another  mountain.  As  we  rise  up  again,  we 
look  back  at  the  bridge  we  have  crossed,  and  gaze  upon  the 
white  gypsum  face  of  the  mountain  upon  the  opposite  side  of  the 
veritable  abyss  -as  grand  a  bit  of  scenery  as  we  have  ever 
looked   upon. 

Like  most  mineral  regions,  this  is  really  very  rich  in  scenery. 
And  as  it  is  a  beautiful  day,  we  are  in  the  humour  to  enjoy  our 
sight-seeing  and  our  newly  acquired  knowledge.  It  would 
indeed  be  called  a  delightful  day  in  either  old  England,  or  New 
England,  and  here  we  are  away  in  Newfoundland  in  the  month 
of  September. 

As  we  gaze  upon  the  myriads  of  flowers  blooming  in  these 
wildernesses  through  which  we  are  passing,  we  marvel  why  in 
these   places   never  reached   by  man   their  exquisite  loveliness  is 
with    such    prodigality    dispensed.     Who    or    what    appreciates 
them  ?      Even   there  have  they  not  a  value       a  value  beyond   our 
powers  of  appreciation  ?     These  are  of  the  mysteries  which  we 
one  day  wish  to   solve  ;    we  apparently  cannot   here.     A  friend 
learns   of  our  perplexity  of  mind   on   this   point  and   informs   us 
about  the  physiology  of  the  flowers,  and  how  they  are  related  to 
other  creatures,  of  the  interdependence  of  insects  and   flowers. 
It    is   really  very  lovely  to   learn  of  all  this  ;    it  is  delightful    to 
know  that  far  away  upon  the  wild  moor,  and  deep  in  the  forest 
glades   there   may  be  myriads  of  joyous,  happy  lives  around   the 
beautiful   flowers  -    happy  in  all  the  good   offices  of  giving  and 
receiving.     This  is  all  true,  but  is  there  not  a  deeper  question 
which  this  does  not   reach  '     We  only  know,  thus  far,  that   the 
insects  -    the  animal       delight   in  the  rich  flowers  which  respond 

22 


BY    CAPE    RAY   AND    BY   TREATY    COAST 


to  the  animal  appetite.  But  what  butterfly  loves  these  beauties 
of  daisies  and  forget-me-nots  because  they  supply  "  honey  for 
the  inner  mind  and  soul  "  ? 

To  man  they  are  a  great,  never-ending  delight,  and  the  most 
beautiful    bearers  of  his   deepest,   tenderest.   holiest    messages, 


Winter  Sceni; 

from   his  youth    until   the  end  of  life,  when,  ever  faithful,  they 
follow  hini  in  sweet  symbolism  of  immortality  to  the  grave. 

>'  To  me  the  meanest  flower  that  blows  can  give 
Thoughts  that  do  often  lie  too  deep  for  tears." 

Too  deep  for  tears,  too  deep  for  words  is  the  thought  which 
holds  converse  with  the  speechless  flowers  ;  and  yet  do  even  we 

23 


TO  THE  OLD  CAPITALS  BY  THE   NEW  WAY 


appreciate  them  to  the  full?  Aiul  still  we  may  ask  if.  away  in 
the  wilds,  do  not  these  Howers  hold  communion  with  the  gods  ?>* 
Nearing  Bay  St.  George  the  land  about  the  road  is  not  so 
good  as  that  which  we  have  been  passing,  and  tlie  rock  hills  are 
not  far  away,  lying  like  piles  of  huge  boulders  one  upon  the 
other. 

Sandy  Point  village  is  seen  in  the  distance.  It  is  situated 
upon  a  long,  sandy  peninsula  -  quite  an  island,  in  fact,  as  it 
appears  today.  It  was  expected  that  our  train  would  transact 
a  large  business  here.  On  enquiry  it  is  found  that  the  people 
of  this  section  use  little  merchandise;  it  is  said  that  what  one 
dollar  per  week  will  purchase  is  quite  enough  of  the  outsider's 
goods  for  the  requirements  of  the  average  citi/cn.  The  miser- 
able looking  creatures  trying  to  handle  the  freight  just  landed 
demonstrates  the  fact  that  the  inhabitants  of  this  vicinity  lack 
the  necessaries  let  alone  the  luxuries  of  life. 

There  is  no  station  at  Sandy  Point,  not  even  a  platform,  and 
everything  is  most  primitive.  The  oil  venturers  goods  are 
pitched  off  into  a  deep  ditch;  some  of  the  heavy  pipes  are 
almost  lost  to  view  in  the  soft  soil,  and  one  looks  as  though 
broken  in  two.     It  will  be  no  small  matter  to  convey  these  heavy 

NOTE   8.      NOTES    liY   CROSS   COUNTRY   TRIP,  MAY,  ,8,9. 

the  trees  ,nust  have  reina.nea  3  son  ■'  aM  '  '"  ^'t^^'^  "^  ''^'^  «""^  "PO" 
Islands  that  wuUer's  day,  lold  u^t'Lt'  o  '^fourte  "dav^UlS^^o';'"'  "^^'  ^^'>'  "' 
in  this  section  of  the  country  -that  this  w-[^  !h  '^;^v^"f^^  "°'  "^sed  to  snow 
however.  ,t  d,d  snow  as  we  Passed  down  hv.h  P  Z  '  "'  '^^>'-  ^^'"^^  "'Kht. 
day,  wh.le  we  lav  last  n,  cmr  d,Ht  and  as  L  n.s  'i  '^''""'^■"«-  ^"^  ^'so  the  ne.xt 
sweepniy  down  by  the  mouma in  l.des  ^     ''^  ""'  '"  '"  """  ^4"-"«  ^-"^ 


24 


-"I 


BY  CAPE  RAY  AND  BY  TREATY  COAST 


iron  pipes  ovt-r  miles  of  country  where  horses  cannot  travel. 
Fortunately  for  the  undertaking  the  manager  is  a  man  of  perse- 
verance and  endurance.  He  goes  forty  miles  up  the  coast.  And 
there  is  also  another  oil  company  operatmg  still  farther  north  on 
this  same  coast. 

Sandy  Pomt  village  contains  a  population  almost  entirely 
engaged  in  the  catching  and  curing  of  fish,  but  yet  we  see,  even 
here,  some  fine  patches  of  potatoes  and  other  vegetables.  Pota- 
toes do  well  all  along  this  coast  where  there  is  any  soil,  and 
they  are  as  good  as  any  found  elsewhere. 

The  population  of  Sandy  Point  is  mostly  French,  and  is 
greatly  controlled  by  French  mterests. 


25 


TO  THE  OLD  CAPITALS  BY  THE  NEW  WAY 


BY  CAPE  RAY  AND  BY  TREATY  COAST 


TREATY  AND  TREATY  COAST 

This    section    of  the    country   all    the   way    from    Port    aux 
Basques    is    within     Treaty    Coast,    but    not    by    the    Treaty    of 
Utrecht.      By  the  terms  of  that  Treaty   the   privileges   given   to 
the  French  had  reference  to  the  part  of  the  coast  starting  from 
Point   Riche.  nearly  up  to  the  Strait  of  Belle  Isle,  and  following 
the  coast  to  the  northern  extremity,  and  then  south-eastward  by 
the  course  of  the  bays  to  Cape   Bonavista.     These  rights  were 
of    a  very  restricted   character,  a/a.l   yet  the  concessions  given 
have  been  a  source  of  terrible  trouble  to   the   British  residents 
ever  since.     To  this  point  Article   XIII.  of  that  Treaty  reads  as 
follows  :  "  Nor  shall  the  most  Christian  king  (the  King  of  France) 
his   heirs  and  successors,  or  any  of  his   subjects,  at  any  time 
hereafter,  lay  claim  to  any  right  to  the  said  island  or  islands,  or 
any  part  of  them.     Moreover,  it  shall  not  be  lawful  for  the  sub- 
jects of  France  to   fortify  any  place  in  the  said   Island  of  New- 
foundland, or  to  erect  any  buildings  there,  besides  stages  made 
of  boards,  and   huts   necessary  and   useful   for  drying  of  fish,  or 
to  resort  to  the  said  island  beyond  the  time  necessary  for  fishing, 
and  drying  of  fish.     But   it  shall   be  allowed  to  the  subjects  of 
France  to  catch   fish  and   to   dry  them  on  land   in  that   part  only, 
and  in  no  other  besides  that  said  Island  of  Newfoundland." 

The  Treaty  of  Versailles  and  the  fraudulent  declaration  of 
George  III.  at  that  time  continues  to  be  the  ground  upon 
which  the  French  have  rested  their  case  a  Treaty  which  was 
a  secret  document,  while  a  sham  one  was  presented  to  the 
English    House  of   Commons.     It  was   also  at    this  time,   1783, 

27 


TO  THE  OLD  CAPITALS  BY  THE  NEW  WAY 


that  the  famous  declaration  was  made  by  King  George  to  this 
effect  :  "  His  Britannic  Majesty  will  take  all  the  most  positive 
measures  for  preventing  his  subjects  from  interfering  in  any 
manner  by  their  competition  with  the  fishery  of  the  French 
during  the  temporary  exercise  of  it.  which  is  granted  them 
upon  the  coasts  of  Newfoundland,  and  he  will  for  this  purpose 
cause  the  fixed  settlements,  which  shall  be  formed  there  to  be 
removed.  His  Britannic  Majesty  will  give  orders  that  the  French 
fishermen  be  not  incommoded  in  cutting  the  wood  necessary  for 
the  repairs  of  their  scaffolds,  huts,  and  fishing  vessels." 

By    the    terms    of    the    Treaty    of    Versailles,   the    French 
renounced  their  rights  upon  the  north-east  coast  extending  from 
Cape  Bonavista  to  Cape  St.  John.     On  the  other  hand  the  fishery 
rights  from  Cape  Point   Riche   to   Cape   Ray  were  given  over  to 
France  in  addition  to  that  already  in  their  possession,  making  in 
all  eight  hundred  miles  (  of  what  is  in  many  respects  the  best  part 
of    the    colony)    the    virtual    possession    of    a    foreign    country. 
Englishmen,  in  a  way,  have  always  claimed  these  bays  and  these 
harbours  as  the  property  of   British   subjects,  but  the  present 
Prime   Minister  of   England   has   been  the    first   to  assume  the 
responsibility  of   declaring  that    French   officers   must   not   take 
forcible  possession   of  English   property  upon  these  waters,  nor 
to  destroy  the  nets  and   boats  of  the   Newfoundland  fishermen 
pursuing  their  lawful  industry  in  their  own  harbours.' 

As  recently  as  the  year  1893,  in  St.  George's  Bay,  the  com- 
mander of  H.  M.  S.  Pelican  gave  notice  to  English  settlers  about 
the   Bay  that  they  were   prohibited   from  selling  herrings  to  any 


"Judge    Frowst. 
28 


BY   CAPE    RAY  AND    BY  TREATY   COAST 


other  than  French  vessels,  placmg  the  supply  at  the  option  of 
the  French  purchaser. 

We  feel  impressed  that  we  have  come  upon  a  country 
abounding  in  tales  of  suffering  and  wrongs,  of  oppressions  from 
friends  as  well  as  the  declared  foes  :  for  what  more  burdensome 
and  cruel  than  the  laws  and  administration  in  the  days  of  the 
Devonshire   Fishing  Admirals? 

The  Treaty  of  Utrecht,  the  Treaty  of  Paris,  and  the  Treaty 
o(  Versailles  were  but  compromises,  make-shifts,  leaving  in 
Newfoundland,  in    St.  Pierre,  and    in   Canada  a  dual  occupancy 


Scene  by  Harve\'s  River 

upon  terms  to  be  varied,  intensified,  or  ignored  as  the  varying 
circumstances  might  determine  ;  leaving  a  smouldering  fire  to 
burst  into  flame  if  the  occasion  should  come. 


29 


TO  THE  OLD  CAPITALS  BY  THE   NEW  WAY 


The  story  of  the  immortal  ChathanVs  denunciations  of  all 
these    unbusinesslike    settlements  -  these    compromises    with 
wrongs  to  colonial  subjects  -  is  an  interesting  chapter  in  history 
But  politicians  of  the   stamp  of  Bute  were  enriched    by  these 
-ppressions,  and  selfish  interests  prevailed.'" 

NOTE  lo.-FROM    NOTES   BY   CROSS   COUNTRY    TRIP    MAY    ,8  <, 
up  a  considerable  p-rarfp      Or.  .h„  h  ,  west  (..oast,  and  are  movme:  s  owlv 


View  of  Uic  Wrecli  n(  ihn  t_         a 

wreck  of  tlic  Tra.n  Approaching  Bay  cf  inlands 


track  ;   the 


30 


BYCAPE    RAY  AND    BY  TREATY   COAST 


A  l.ttle  search,  and   ,t  ib  fou.Td  thirn     nnl  T'^'  y^"^^'"'"g  ^^ys. 

d.d  not  leave  the  rail.  The  baggage  ma"°er  and  th  ""^  'T'"^'  '^'^"^  '""Sine 
cars  were  not  at  their  nosts  "fnH  5^  master  and  the  ma.l-clerk  of  the  disabled 
three  were  in  the  Colonist  clr'  the  resThf '^"'""^  ""P^'^'  '"'^'^"y  ^°'  '^em.     Only 

A  gang  ,s  very  "s":."  at  worlTu  iSfnTf  frTcVarotl'"'"^""^  ^^^  '^"^P^^' 
cars  can  be   passed   on.      The  passeni^e  s^^th        k  'i  °"'  '^""^'^  '^^  '^at  our 

various  experiences,  but  soon  we  are  comfnftfM  '^V'.  f"'*  .'*'"'"  '°  '!'•''<="««  their 
quickly  enough.  ^  comfortably  settled  for  the  night,  which  passes 

ress  ?ow\rdTs,7rt "  irihelstanc:  weTea^rh^  °"'  'V'^  '°'  °"-^'-^  ^^e  prog- 

of  .he  track  layers,  and  now  and  aga'n  the  whtstTe"of^  °'  ''''  '''^^.  ^"'^  ^^'^'-"^ 

dgdin  ine  whistle  of  an  engine  is  heard.     The 


Scene  of  Baggage-car  after  Wreck 

;^^::;i;'ncrth:  w;^  neXi^r;.:^  ■„  ':r  t'-'-'  '-r^''-  ^--  -^^^ 

.s  a  bngh,  day,  and  some  very  poodsr^ap  shots  Irrr'''  '^^^'"  ^'  ""  ^&^'"'  '' 
characters  of  our  company.     L^st    but  not  ^eas^  H^  -embracing  all  the  notable 

our  trunk  ■  the  same  one  that  felt  bkck.n  the  !f'  ^^  ^""^  "''^"'-  ^^  ^^^  ^  P'^^'^^e  of 
of  the  wreck.  We  felt  very  mu.h  fo  ,t  wh.f ""'"" '  ^"''  ^'  "  '"  ''"'"^  landed  out 
baggage-car.  with  a  seven  or^Tghthunddte"rr,i'.r  f  "^^""^h  ^  ^ole  m  the 
•t.      At  eleven  o'clock  we  are  on  our  wav  agam'^^    ^  °^  ''°"  machinery  lying  on 

The  passage  from  the  scene  of  the  wreck  to  the   R,       r  r   i       , 
as  many  attractions  as  it  was  when  firc^t  ^^,7      „    .     ?^  °^  Islands  is  marked  by 

31 


TO  THE  OLD  CAPITALS   BY  THE  NEW  WAY 

"Bay  of  Islands  next,"  so  Uie  brakenian  cries.  As  the 
physician  has  arranged  for  us  to  be  let  off  at  the  first  siding 
upon  the  Bay,  we  gather  up  our  parcels  and  stand  waiting  our 
chance  to  alight,  for  we  are  running  at  break-neck  speed  down 
an  awful  hill  —  but  what  scenerv  ! 


The  Dog  Following  the  Train 

Approaching  our  landing  place  at  Bay  of  Islands  the  scenery 
becomes  grand.  Blomidon  rising  over  two  thousand  feet,  stands 
conspicuous  above  everything;  but  as  one  sweeps  around  Mount 
Moriah,  and  catches  a  view  of  the    Bay  lying  almost   beneath 

more  extended  views  of  the  beautifully  varied  landscapes  and  swollen  streams   as 
hey  are  to  be  seen   through  the   leafless  forest.     On  our  w.nter  tr m  we  saw  thes- 

iou^h    an  f     ""'''\  ""   '^"^.  °""-     ''''''  '^''^«"'  -'^''^  -"-  ^as  re^  i'^^rupon  eve  ; 
bough,  and  every  stuiiip,  and  every  windfall  had  its  fleecy  covering  ^  ^ 

Isl«n  7."'"'"^  f'uT        ""  ""'  '^'^'f'  ^'""^'"^^  '•'^y''^  °"r  near  approach  to  the  Bay  of 

aims  'the  skv  In    "'  ^"'"l"'  °'  "^^  ^^"'"^  "^  '^e  Bay  far  .n  the  d.stance  ;  and  way 
af,ainst  the  sky  looms  up  white-capped  ••  Blow-Me-Down  -  ' 

two   fll;  Lrat^'t  1  "rTar    We^Sluite^'Vif^th^'^'   '''''■"  T  °-  '"^^^^e  upon 
followers  of  ours  as  thev  ire      wi  ^       ,      I         c  Po^f^^^'^d  sensibilities,  faithful 

by  chance  '•  wa"    But  ^Ly  are  IIILu      '"  '""  '''''  ''^  "^^^''^"^^  '»  '^'^  "  ""- 


32 


BY    CAPE    RAY    AND    BY   TREATY   COAST 


then,  a  distance  of  five  or  six  hundred  feet,  the  hi,h  mountains 
by  the  opposhe  shore  but  two  or  three  males  away,  the  pretty 
villages,  and  churches,  and  the  shipping  at  the  base  of  the 
almost  perpendicular  formations  close  by  the  water,  one  has 
mdeed  a  delightful  picture. n 


has  started  wuhom  the  custo'LT'^aSou' '^to^'L^r  .r^cr"  hI'  ''^  '^^'" 
pletely  bewildered,  but  finally  runs  and  grasps  the  forwa  d  n  .Vt  f  u'  '°"'- 
car  at  our  rear.  It  being  a  down  grade,%he%eed  .s  h.Jh  and  a  thn'  l"T 
protests  against  it,  he  is  forced  to  let  go  and  is  left  behind  although    he 


riki^   '^•>'i  <: 


\ 


T'^      ^ 

1 'assL-n<!et <i  Skating 

tra.n  Is'I'r.'al'' urT"  hn^^'*''   '"    '"^  """    ""''''>'  '°   '"^''^^  ^^e  "Cross    Country" 

rha"  ,T.^na,n;  1  np   es""r.pT::   ^-^  ^^ ^s  ^^^""1"°'^'"^  character  of  this"tSn 
chase  ^  (-xpresb,  for  he  is    ^een   tor  more  than  a   mile  giving  us 


33 


TO  THE  OLD  CAPITALS  BY  THE   NEW  WAY 


All  brakes  are  pressing  to  their  utmost  ;  are  we  to  go  plun- 
ging into  the  sea  off  a  huge  rock  ?  We  have  whirled  past  our 
intended  "  stop  off."  But  at  last  we  do  slacken  speed  and  in  quick 
time  are  by  the  roadside,  with  our  half-dozen  pieces  of  luggage 
scattered  up  and  down  the  track  for  about  hfty  yirds.  There  is 
no  station,  no  station  master,  and  the  train  has  gone  on  ;  we 
would  have  been  in  a  sorry  plight  had  not  the  do*nor  helped 
us  in   our  perplexity. 

And  with  this  sudden  and  precipitous  landing  we  end  our 
first  chapter  on  railroading  in  Newfoundland.  It  was  three  days 
before  we  were  able  to  get  our  luggage  together  for  another  ride. 

It  was  here  at  Carter's  A^e  stoppeii  four  hours  when  on  our  cross-country 
trip  last  winter  to  change  cars,  to  take  water,  and  to  take  coal.  The  very  necessary 
preparations  for  another  run  were  then  all  attended  to  in  the  most  deliberate 
and  methodical  manner,  and  one  thing  at  a  time,  just  as  we  were  told  to  do 
things  by  those  of  experience  when  we  were  children. 

On  that  winters  day  we  had  plenty  of  time  for  snap-shots  of  this  delightful 
scenery.  The  skating  upon  the  Bay  was  then  very  good;  our  parlour-car  occupants 
availed  themselves  of  this  excellent  oppo.tunity  for  having  a  turn.  We  pictured 
them  in  the   very  act.     How  will  it  be  this  time?  ' 

Our  unfortunate  traveller  has  caught  up  to  us  it  was  only  four  and  a  half 
miles.  He  expresses  great  indignation  at  the  conductor  and  threatens  to  expose 
the  whole  circumstance  to  "  Mr.  Reid." 


34 


BY   CAPE    RAY  AND    BY   TREATY   COAST 


A  Camp  in  the  Bush 


TO  THE  OLD  CAPITALS  BY  THE   NEW  WAY 


View  of  Mt.  Moriah,  Ray  of  Islands 


TWO   CHARMING    DAYS   AT 
A   NEWFOUNDLAND   "OUTPORT," 
THE   BAY   OF   ISLANDS 


We  very  soon  learn  that  in  this  Colony,  every  town,  village 
or  considerable  settlement,  other  than  St.John'sand  Whitbourn' 
IS  designated  an  •'  outport."  Whitbourne,  a  village  of  about  one 
thousand  souls,  is  the  only  inland  town  or  village  in  the  whole 
Colony  ~  situated  at  one  of  the  railway  junctions.  With  these 
two  exceptions  every  settlement  is  a  seaport,  because  the  sea 
has  proved  the  only  means  of  communication  between  the  d.f 
ferent  settlements.     Their  interests  have    been,  practically,  all 

36 


TWO  CHARMING  DAYS  AT  AN  OUTPORT 


seawiirds  ;  from  the  sea  has  come  the  prime  factor  in  the  pro- 
duction  of  all  forms  of  utilities,  either  for  exchange,  for  absolute 
and  necessary  consumption,  or  the  material  of  reproduction. 
That  these  are  well  named  "  outports  "  subsidiary  to  something 
of  more  importance  in  some  way,  is  one  of  the  peculiar  condi- 
tions which  we  feel  sensibly  after  being  a  few  hours  upon  this 
coast.  Wc  are  impressed  by  its  influence,  as  being,  not  only 
economic,  but  also  political  and  social.  In  our  few  hours'  ride 
by  rail,  we  felt  that  we  were  in  an  atmosphere  abounding  with 
functionaries  that  the  ordinary  mortal  might  be  under  a  sort 
of  compliment  to  someone  for  the  privilege  of  existing  and  acting, 
to  say  nothmg  of  entertaining  a  conviction. i 

That  the  Bay  of  Islands  is  at  least  a  sub-political  outport, 
we  have  a  conspicuous,  ocular  demonstration  as  soon  as  we 
alight  from  our  railway  carriage,  for  as  we  are  landed  in  our 
somewhat  detached  and  beshredded  manner,  we  find  ourselves 
in  the  midst  of  what  seems  to  be  a  large  and  distinguished  com- 
pany of  people,  if  we  may  judge  by  their  appearance  and  actions, 
with  a  few  others  about  them  in  obsequious  attitudes.  We  are 
attracted  by  the  flutter  of  bunting,  and  looking  toward  the  water 
side,  we  see  a  good  sized,  and  well  equipped  craft  with  its  rig- 
ging loaded  with  flags  and  streamers.  It  is  a  pretty  sight,  but 
what    does   it  all   mean  '      Has   some   rich   and   public   personage 

'  A  lout;  visit  Xo  the  Colony,  anj  much  contact  with  the  neonle    i-onvinr^..  ,u 
v.hty,  yet  the  deportment  of  the  classes  toward  each  other  is  quue  as  lood    and  the 

"r'\"r.he   u' Itri  t^e'"'V'  "'r'-  ^^  ?'"^  ^'^'^  ^'^^  ^^"^^-  -  th^e   Provinces 
that  V:    o,r.  h  Vf    Rverywhere  w,th  us.  Jack  makes  it  distinctly  understood 

that  he  considers  himself  a  little  better  than  his  master. 


37 


TO  THE  OLD  CAPITALS  BY  THE  NEW  WAY 


brought  a  party  here  for  a  novel  marriage,  and  a  gala  day  ? 
There  certainly  is  a  very  pretty  church  over  yonder,  so  pictur- 
esquely placed  by  the  mountain  side  ;  and  surely  the  priest, 
as  well  as  other  notables  of  the  country,  must  be  represented 
in  this  party  we  have  so  unexpectedly  come  among.  We  have 
but  a  moment  for  all  these  queries  to  revolve  in  our  minds,  our 
attention  being  distracted  between  this  unusual  conclave,  and 
the  disposal  of  our  luggage,  when,  lo  !  as  suddenly  as  we  found 
ourselves  among  them,  as  suddenly  the  party  has  disappeared. 
But  we  will  know  more  about  it.  We  ask  a  gentleman  near  us 
what  vessel  it  is  with  all  the  flags. 

"  Oh,  that  is  the  Fiona." 

"  Well,  what  is  the  Fiona  ?  " 

"  She  is  a  Circuit  Boat." 

"  And  what  is  a  Circuit  Boat  ?  " 

"  Why,  don't  you  know  what  a  Circuit  Boat  is  ?  " 

We  have  to  confess  our  ignorance  on  the  subject. 

"  Why,  that  is  the  Government  Circuit  Boat,  and  she  is  now 
carrying  the  law  court  from  port  to  port  around  the  island. 
When  court  is  over,  here,  she  goes  to  Bonnie  Bay  farther  up  the 
coast.  She  will  take  the  judge,  who  comes  here  today  by  train 
from  St.  John's.  The  judge  who  has  been  presidmg  here  went 
away  just  now  by  train  to  St.  John's." 

"  Was  that  the  cause  of  all  the  commotion  and  large  gather- 
ing at  the  train's  stopping  here  ?   '  we  ask. 

"  Oh,  yes,"  is  the  reply  ;  ••  these  judges  come  out  here  from 
St.  Johns." 

"  And  are  there  any  lawyers  here  ?  "  we  continue. 

"  No,  not   any  ;  they  mostly  come  out   from  St.  John's  and 

38 


TWO  CHARMING  DAYS  AT  AN  OUTPORT 


travel  arouna  m  the  Circuit  Boat,  although  wc  have  a  magistrate 
who  moved  ow  from  St.  Johns  a  little  way  hack." 

One  piece  of  our  luggage  goes  tu  a  house  near  by,  another  to 

a  store,  and  the  rest  we  manage.      Everyone   seems   anxious  to 

do  all  in  their  power  for  us.     Not  a  horsf.  nor  a  mule,  nor  an  ox 

not  even  a  dog- is  to  be   seen.     There  is  but  one  dog  in  the 

whole  district. 


The    ■Fiona"  iii  Dry  Dock 

We  walk  to  our  destination  by  the  railway,  the  highway 
being  of  little  importance,  and  arc  introduced  to  the  magistrate, 
who  is  affable  and  very  agreeable,  and  whose  large,  comfortable, 
and  well-appointed  dwelling  we  have  just  passed.  This  gentle- 
an  extends   many  kind  wishes   for  oui   pleasant   stay  at   Bay  of 


Islands.      He  wants  to  knov/  if 


vvt-  propose  to  spend  a  day  or  two 


m   the   woods   on    the   hunt.      Bui   we    have    no    sucli    intention. 

39 


TO  THE  OLD  CAPITALS  BY  THE  NEW  WAY 


One  hundred  dollars  is  the  foreigner's  license  fee  for  the  privi- 
lege to  hunt  for  deer  and  caribou,  and  the  magistrate  gets  a  con- 
siderable portion  of  it  for  himself.  We  do  not  entertain  a 
thought  that  this  administrator  of  law  has  any  self  interest  in 
learning  to  what  extent  we  are  on  a  pleasure  trip.  But  what  if 
he  has  ?  He  is  agreeable,  and  we  like  him,  nevertheless.  Some- 
one suggests  ulterior  motives.  We  positively  will  not  ;  the 
gratitude  of  heart  for  his  hospitable  smile  forbids  it. 

A  schooner  of  about  one  hundred  tons  is  lying  at  anchor, 
though  with  all  her  sails  pulled  up  aloft,  and  fluttering.  A  mes- 
senger comes  to  inform  the  doctor  that  she  is  only  waiting  for 
him,  as  he  is  wanted  down  the  Bay.  and  that  the  craft  will  take 
him.  The  doctor  tells  us  that  this  is  his  only  mode  of  convey- 
ance, that  he  keeps  no  horse,  and  that  in  all  there  are  but  two 
or  three  miles  at  the  Bay  over  which  a  carriage  could  be  con- 
veyed, and  that  at  a  speed  not  much  faster  than  a  walk.  Indeed 
we  are  told  that  horses  are  very  rare,  and  are  kept  only  for  haul- 
ing wood,  and  bringing  the  herring  over  the  ice,  from  the  holes 
made  for  the  purpose  of  fishing,  in  the  winter. 

Apropos  of  this  subject,  a  gentleman  gives  us  an  essay  upon 
the  horse,  composed  at  one  of  the  schools  recently.  We  are 
confident  that  it  must  have  produced  a  profound  sensation  upon 
the  fellow  schoolmates. 

ESSAY    ON    THE    HORSE 

„o.  ]'r!^''  ^^  u ''^  ''""^'^  '""'°'^  ^"^  '"  ^he  w'"^^'-  halls  herring,  men 
got  to  put  shows  on  the  horse,  fraid  they  would  fall  on  sCv 
jce  horse  plows  grown  horse  eights  hay  and  oats  you  can  ride  on 

^han  oien'h'"  '  ''"  '"  '''''''''  "^^  ">^^^  ^^^^  ^^^  run  faster 
wons  th  ^°'''?.l^'''  '^  hawl  slays  and  carts  horses  have  young 
wons  there  is  differents  of  horses  there  is  wild  horses  and  therl 

Zr.^Z^  '"'■^-     ■^°''^'^  "  ^  """"'y  "^^f"^  anamile    the  horse  is  a 

reThn/""*-'  ^T""'^""  /''"'""  •'  ^'^^  ^"""^^^  ^"^  black  horses  and 
red  horses  and  gray  horses." 

40 


TWO    CHARMING    DAYS   AT   AN    OUTPORT 

Aitt-T  a  walk  of  a  milt  and  a  half,  we  arrive  at  our  iiotel. 
Wc  approach  the  hostelry  by  the  back  yard,  and  then  around 
by  a  gate  kept  closed  —almost  too  effectually  against  individuals 
with  httle   muscle  -  by  a  weight  consisting  of  quite  a  length  of 


M*.   Moriali  fi-or-.i   Pctrics 


old   cable   chain,  slung  by  one  of  smaller  dimensions.     We  pass 
through,  wondering  what  thrilling  history  that  bit  of  cable  could 


41 


TO  THE  OLD  CAPITALS  BY  THE  NEW  WAY 

relate  of  its  service  to  the  ship  long  before  it  came  here.  It  has 
been  here  for  a  longer  time  than  anyone  can  tell. 

Before  entering  this  traveller's  rest,  we  linger  upon  the  spa- 
cious verandah  to  enjoy  the  beautiful  prospect  which  surrounds 
it.  Mt.  Moriah  to  the  left,  behind  which  is  the  declining  sun. 
Further  away  in  the  distance  lofty  "  Blow-Me-Down  "  still  bask- 
ing in  a  brighter  sunlight,  and  the  Bay  to  sea-ward.  Just  oppo- 
site is  the  pretty  village  of  Summerside,  and  then  Crow's  Head  ; 
while  a  little  to  our  right  are  the  deep  wooded  hillsides  and 
vales  at  Hugh's  Brook.  Far  up  the  mountain-side  is  the  new 
Roman  Catholic  chapel  —  grand  in  proportions.  All  is  delightful 
in  the  mellow  light  of  the  setting  sun  upon  this  ripe  summer's 
day. 

At  first  we  are  left  in  doubt  as  to  whether  we  can  secure 
entertainment  here  or  not  -no  one  seems  quite  sure  of  anything 
in  this  country.  This  is  one  of  the  striking  characteristics  of 
the  people  that  will  impress  the  observing  traveller.  And  why 
should  it  not  be  a  peculiar,  a  prevailing  trait,  with  a  people  whose 
lives,  whose  whole  history,  has  been  one  of  uncertainty  of  events 
which  involve  so  much  of  life  and  property,  and  whose  political 
history  has  been  so  much  beyond  their  own  power  and  control. 

But  we  are  placed  in  comfortable  quarters  nevertheless 

the  best  that  can  be  given  are  offered  with  hospitality. 

In  the  evening  we  visit  the  store  of  an  old  acquaintance,  and 
here  we  witness  a  striking  instance  of  the  courtesy  and  kindly 
breeding  of  these  people.  A  young  lady  enters,  and  as  she  is  not 
served  directly,  she  enters  into  a  spirited  conversation  with  us 
about  the  doings  of  the  court  now  in  session,  and  we  regret  when 
she  is  finally  served    and    bids   the  merchant    good-night.     We 

42 


TWO  CHARMING  DAYS  AT  AN  OUTPORT 


wished  she  might  have  extended  her  pleasant  adieu  to  us  all. 
It  would  seem  the  most  natural  thing  from  such  a  frank  and 
generous  spirit.  But  it  proves  we  are  not  to  be  disappointed,  for 
directly  she  does  return,  and  asks  our  pardon  for  what  she  calls 
her  rudeness  in  not  extending  her  customary  leave-taking  to  us. 
We  think  this  an  exhibition  of  manners  most  gratifying,  hitherto 
not  known  by  us  elsewhere. 

We  are  up  early  on  the  second  day  of  our  stay  at  Bay  of 
Islands,  and  eager  to  gain  a  chance  to  use  our  kodak,  for  the 
clouds  are  at  times  shutting  out  the  light  which  we  require  A 
company  of  fishermen  in  the  loft  of  a  cooperage  want  us  to 
photograph  them.  One  of  the  company  thinks  that  such  a  pic- 
ture, with  fishermen  in  their  jackets,  would  not  be  the  right 
thing  _  and  they  a  lot  of  old  rough  fellows.  Another  says  these 
are  just  the  right  kind,  for  they  •'  show  character  in  a  picture." 

Th-  collector  of  customs  for  the  port  of  Bay  of  Islands  is  a 
boarder  at  our  hotel,  and  we  find  him  quite  an  encyclopaedia  in 
his  way.  From  him  we  gather  quite  a  fund  of  interesting  and 
useful  information,  having  much  to  do  with  incidents  and  cus- 
toms of  the  place-'     We    are    sittir,,     .pon   the  verandah   of  our 

summe°n"'  ^"""'"'^^  "^  "'^h   ^^^   '^^^'^   '^^  Bay  of  Islands,  both   in  winter  and   in 

,n.n,^'''""!f'^  Of  exports   from   this   Bay.  including    Lark   Harbour,  a   small   settle- 
ment near  by,  and  exports  coastwise  for  the  year  1899  :  S'ettle- 


Pickled  Herrinf;    . 

Bulk  Salted   . 

F'rozen 

Lobsters 

Salmon 

Dry  Codfish 


23,500  barrels. 

30,000 

12,000 

2,000  cases. 
120  barrels. 

4.500  quintals. 


t  winter  from    Bay  of  Islands,  which 


A  cargo  of  frozen  herrings  taken  the  pas^  w.iucr  .rom  Day  ot  Islands  which 
7Zu"^T"''rl"  'he  Boston  market,  realized  a  net  profit  of"^  IgZ  Another 
marketed   -.n   Montreal  made  $5,000  net  profit  to  the  speculator.  ^""'her 


43 


TO  THE  OLD  CAPITALS  BY  THE  NEW  WAY 

temporary  home  with  this  official  of  onerous  duties  —  for  this 
is  a  chief  port  of  entry  upon  the  west  coast  chatting  upon  the 
many  subjects  which  the  scene  before  us  affords  for  agreeable 
talk,  and  enjoying  the  deliciously  soft  breeze  which  is  moving 
past  us  down  the  Bay.  Lying  between  us  upon  the  floor  is  an 
old  Newfoundland  dog,  the  last  remnant  of  his  race  left  in  the 
district.  His  time  is  now  mostly  spent  in  sleeping  away  the 
few  remaining  years  left  him  by  sufferance.  Various  are  the 
expressed  opinions  in  the  district  as  whether  even  this  one  New- 
foundland dog  should  not  be  annihilated  at  once.  He  surely 
seems  quite  harmless  !  And  who  knows  how  deep  the  feeling 
of  love  which  moves  the  one  who  begs  for  his  life,  that  this 
faithful  friend  who  has  no  revenge  or  condemnation  in  his  heart 
may  be  by  his  side  a  little  longer  in  the  flesh.  But  this  is  a  time 
when  sentiment  must  give  way  to  material  advantage,  progress, 
development.  An  act  of  the  legislature  of  the  Colony  empowers 
any  district  to  petition  this  body  to  prohibit  the  keeping  of  dogs 
within  the  specified  district.  When  one-third  or  upwards  of  the 
electors  have  so  petitioned,  a  proclamation  is  issued  prohibiting 
the  keeping  of  dogs  in  sucii  area  ;  collies  alone  are  exempted, 
and  there  are  none  of  these  here.  This  is  called  the  "  Sheep 
Preservation  Act."  The  electors  of  the  Bay  of  Islands  peti- 
tioned, and  as  a  consequence  the  old  Newfoundland  dog  is  ban- 
ished by  the  act  of  popular  will.  And  if  he  does  not  get  away 
forthwith,  any  constable  has  the  power  to  kill  him  where  he 
may  be   found   in   the  district. 

It  is  claimed  that  sheep  raising  can  be  quite  profitably  con- 
ducted here.  And  some  vegetables  are  raised  in  considerable 
quantities.     We  are  told  that  no  potatoes  have  been  imported  at 

44 


TWO  CHARMING  DAYS  AT  AN  OUTPORT 


this  port  for  many  years.  Those  we  have  at  our  table  are  all 
delicious.  Over  the  one  hundred  and  fifty  miles  of  the  French 
coast  which  we  have  seen  there  should  be  no  lack  of  this  neces- 
sary of  life.  The  day  will  no  doubt  come  when  there  will  be  a 
surplus,  and  then  they  will  be  sent  to  other  parts  of  the  Island. 
Fine  cabbages  are  also  seen  in  little  patches  everywhere.  They 
cannot  be  excelled,  and  the  man  who  raises  them  for  market 
gets  a  good  price,  as  the  protection  is  ample.  Cabbage  is  a 
common  article  of  food,  and  forms  the  principal  of  many  tasty 
preparations  for  the  table.  It  is  cooked  much  more  thoroughly 
than  we  have  seen  it  prepared  elsewhere.  At  times  we  have 
had  a  course  of  only  cabbage  with  its  dressing  and  condiments. 

A  merchant  at  the  Bay  has  quite  a  fruit  orchard,  or  rather 
garden  plot  of  fruit  trees  ;  plums,  pears,  apples,  and  small  fruits. 
The  trees  look  healthy,  but  the  yield  is  small,  rare,  and  uncer- 
tain. The  experiments  prove  that  it  will  be  only  those  who 
have  an  abundant  income  from  other  sources  than  the  raising  of 
fruit  who  can  afford  to  secure  these  luxuries.  They  will  be 
luxuries  indeed  if  this  be  the  only  way  of  obtaining  them. 

We  should  also  judge  from  the  lobster  served  at  the  table  of 
our  friend,  the  packer,  that  the  preparing  and  cooking  of  this 
fish  was  another  accomplishment  of  these  people.  We  believe 
the  preparation  of  the  lobster  about  these  coasts  is  superior,  as 
it  is  with  the  preparation  of  other  fish  elsewhere.  This  is 
another  lesson  in  the  correctness  of  the  principles  which  gives 
to  the  consumer  everywhere,  not  only  the  greatest  abundance, 
but  also  the  best  in  quality.  The  lobster  packer  is  now  building 
a  steam  launch  to  be  used  for  communication  with  his  factories, 
and  doing  the  necessary  freight  business.     We  get  a  snap  shot 

45 


TO  THE  OLD  CAPITALS   BY  THE  NEW  WAY 


'1 


of  him  and  his  craft,  as  he  stands  upon  the  staging  inspecting  his 
work.  This  gentleman  has  a  factory  at  the  Bay  for  making  tins 
from  which  he  sells  many  to  the  smaller  concerns.  With  the' 
tms  the  smaller  catcher  of  lobsters  can  very  successfully  pack 
his  own  catch.  This  is  working  much  against  the  larger  oper- 
ators, and  IS  quite  a  general  subject  of  complaint  with  them. 


W.   K.  Aug..v:„  on  the  Stagi,,,;  of  hi.  Steam  Ya.ht 

to  the  ■■  Head  -  ,h  ■  ""  °''"™"  '^  '^''^  "^  "P 

danger  .h"     U  „  "  '"'^'  '°  "'^  "^^  '-"  '   '°^  '^"e  is 

nger  that  u  may  not  stop  near  us  this  time      Ai  the  ■■  H.    ,  - 

w.n  he  the  bottom  of  the  h,„.  strange  to  say.  '  ""' 

-    f."":::';  'o^  ":  "'  ■■  ^'""'^"  ---  °^  ■■  B'-w-Me-Oown  ■• 

the.  crn  et,°::e :::::  ::;■;  -^  r  ^=  -  ---^  -p 

K  was  cold  enough  "  to  free;ce  the  horns 
46 


^ 
* 


w 
1 


I 


I 


TWO    CHARMING    DAYS   AT   AN   OUTPORT 

Off  .he  Caribou.'     In  .he  win.er  .he  hun.er  „us.  go  ,o  .he  high 
oc  y  „ou„.a,ns  ,o  seeure  .h.  ga,.e,  Tor  i.  is  .her.  .ha   X' 
feed  upon  the  moss,  which  .hey  are  able  tn  fi„  ,  i, 
a  coa.ing  of  snow.  "  ">'  "^"""^  ""^^ 

On  one  side  of  this  moun.ain  is  a  rich  ,■„„„ 
ooerateH    a„,l  ,  j  u    ,  copper  mine  which  is 

opera.ed,  and  a  deep  shaf.  already  sunk  ' 

One  m.le  up  from  our  s.ar.,  we  land  .o  yis..  .he  pos.-office 
The  PCS.  omce  official  wishes  .o  show  us  .he  in.erior  of  .he 
beau.,ful  l,..,c   Bay  of  Islands'  church.     We  gladly  accep.  h' 

..roll  on  .0  .he  church,  our  gu.de,  .he  while,  in    en.husias.ic 
terms  euog,.mg  .he  memory  of  .he  benefac.ors  who  made  ,. 
possible   for  ,hem  .o  have    so    useful  and    beau.ifu,  a  place  o 
worship.     The  Bay  of  Islands   Episcopal  church,  so  universally 
admired,  s.ands  abou.  .wo  hundred  fee.  from  .he  water    and 
one-third  of  the  distance  to  the  moun.ain  .op.     A.  all  poin.s  ,t 
.s  partly  hidden  behind  the  clus.ers  of  deep  evergreen  .rees  .ha. 
are  do..ed  all  over  ,he  moun.ain  side,  and  fill  .he  deep  ravines. 
The  wh„e  fence  of  the  churchyard  peeping  .hrough,  never  al.o- 
ge.her  seen,  adds  .o  .he  picturesque  eifec,  as  one  approaches 
by  the  winding  grassy  ways.     From  the  church  the  view  is  very 
beautiful,  and    very    extensive  ;    a    fitting    spot    for   prayer   and 
praise  !  ^ 

We  enter  this  sanctuary  with  extreme  veneration,  for  here 
we  are  told,  devout  and  true  men  laboured  and  made  undoubted 
sacrifice    for    Christ's  sake.      And   we    become   more  and    more 


■'At   Bay   of    IslanJs    is  an    iron    pyrites,   from   which    sulphuric   acid  will   be 


be's'taned!"'  "'  "   "' '^'-  ^"'''^  "   ^''''  P^'P  -anufact' 


uring  enterprise  soon  to 


47 


TO  THE  OLD  CAPITALS  BY  THE  NEW  WAY 


impressed,  as  we  view  the  reminders  of  their  good  works 
inscribed  by  those  who  followed  after.  It  is  a  pretty  church,  with 
a  well-appointed,  roomy  chancel.  The  windows  throughout  are 
of  leaded  glass.  The  chancel  window  is  a  fine  memorial  to 
Captain  Howeth  of  the  Royal  Navy,  once  a  large  contributor, 
and  a  good  friend  to  the  parish.     At  the  side  of  this  is  a  smaller 


Church  of  England.  Bay  of  Islands 

Stained  glass  window,  also  in  memory  of  Captain  Howeth  ; 
given  by  the  Church  Institute.  Another  window  is  a  fitting 
memorial  to  the  father  of  our  host.  The  organ  is  quite  fine  and 
was  the  gift  of  the  Rev.  J.  Curling,  who  did  so  much  in  every 
way  for    the  church.      This   reverend    gentleman   was   once   an 

48 


TWO   CHARMING   DAYS  AT  AN   OUTPORT 

engineer  in  office  m  .he  Royal  Navy,  and   resigned  his  commis- 
sion  when  on  the   station  at   Bermuda    to  prepare  himself   for 
holy  orders  ;  he  was  ordained  in  zSga.  and  was  sent  a  missionary 
to  the  Bay  of  Islands.     Of  abundant   means,  he  possessed   the 
valuable    yacht,   Lavrock,  which    he  gave  several    years  ago  to 
the  coastal  missionary  work.     She  is  still  employed  in  the  same 
good  service.     We  are  told  that  tangible  proofs  of  h>s  generosity 
are   seen  all  over  the  coasts  of  Newfoundland.     But  here  was 
the  greatest  of  his  benefactions.     We  call  this  sublime  !     Most 
men,  reared  and  schooled,  and   entered  upon  life's  great,  active 
battle    among   the    throng,  would    not    care    to    give  where  the 
applause  of  the  world  could  not  reach  them,  nor  their  work  be 
discerned  by  man.     But  here,  cut  off  from  all  but  the  very  few 
who  could  appreciate  his  work,  he  built  a  home  for  his  successor 
in  office,  and  gave  it  to  the  parish  ;  gave  a  missionary  yacht  that 
all  the  little  coves  about  the  coast  might  hear  of  Christ,  and  his 
healing  message  ;  gave  this  little  church  an  organ  ;  gave  to  these 
people,   so   far  removed    from  access  to    such  things,  the    pos- 
sibilities   of    a    rich    and    inspiring    service   without    a    thought 
of  a  return,  satisfied  with  the  assurance  of  God's  approval,  and 
the  good  it  might  do  these  "toilers  of  the  sea,"  these  humble 
fishermen. 

We  leave  this  — one  of  the  unique  shrines  of  the  English 
Chi.  :h  in  Newfoundland  thanking  the  fates  which  keep  it  so 
well  preserved,  while  many  are  going  to  decay;  wishing  that 
time  might  be  longer,  and  circumstances  such  that  we  might 
learn   more  of  its  history. 

At  Fisher's  we  are  obliged  to  keep  away  from  the  shore  a 
quarter  of  a  mile  because  of  a  long  wharf  which  juts  out  into 

49 


TO  THE  OLD  CAPITALS  BY  THE   NEW  WAY 

the  Bay  ;  a  solid  structmi',  uiaik;  cnlircly  ol  slabs,  and  other 
refuse  lumber. 

The  "  Head,  "  so  called,  is  the  head  of  the  Bay  of  Islands, 
and  the  estuary  of  that  river  of  ^;raiul  scenery,  the  Huiuber. 
This  is  one  of  the  Newfoundlaml  Bays  where  the  Head  is  at  the 
head.  Of  the  most  of  them  tliey  tell  us  that  the  bottom  of  the 
bay  is  at  the  head. 

We  have  two  hours'  stay  at  Carters  before  our  train  is  due. 
•'  Carter's"  is  the  name  given  to  this  place  through  one,  Carter, 
having  built  a  hotel  here  recently,  where  it  is  supposed  the 
principal  station  at  the  Bay  of  Islands  will  be  located.  At  this 
point  the  car  track  comes  down  nearly  to  the  water.  It  is 
rumoured  that  a  Hne  hotel  the  '•  Reid's  "  --  is  to  be  built  here 
to  catch  the  summer  tourist,  who  is  sure  to  come  this  way  to 
enjoy  the  wild  and  grand  scenery,  the  sport  by  the  stream  and 
the  hunt.     All  of  which  he  linds  here  in  abundance. 


t^-HMt^tgirn^v    Jt^' 


,„(OSW*'.*t*'¥!'lt>' 


fc-V 


ia 


5f^^ 


-ir*- 


Scenc  at  tlie  Head  of  Bay  of  Islands 


CROSSING   THE  ANCIENT  COLONY  BY  RAIL 


Boating  on  the  Humber  River 


»       ,h 


TO  THE  OLD  CAPITALS  BY  THE  NEW  WAY 


CROSSING   THE  ANCIENT  COLONY  BY  RAIL 


BAY    OF   ISLANDS    TO    THE    TOPSAILS 

The  scenery  by  the  Humber  River  for  several  miles  from  its 
estuary  is  indeed  grand.  The  train  is  skimming  along  by  one  of 
its  perpendicular  mountainous  banks,  which  reach  at  times  to 
nearly  a  thousand  feet  in  height.  As  we  look  ahead  by  a  turn, 
and  catch  a  glimpse  of  the  way  we  must  travel,  there  seems  no 
escape  from  an  awful  plunge  down  by  the  rock  side  into  the 
river  immediately  below. 

Peacefully,  tranquilly,  gently,  seem  to  rest  and  move  the 
waters  of  this  beautiful  river  :  sometimes  bright  in  the  clear 
light  of  the  afternoon  sun,  again  in  shadow,  while  the  landscape 
lies  charmingly  silhouetted  upon  the  water.  The  opposite  bank 
rears  its  rocky  face,  first  into  a  regular  perpendicular  mass,  and 
then  again  it  is  split  into  a  deep  gorge  with  irregular  towers 
pushing  their  rugged  pmnacles  into  the  sky  above  —  verily  impal- 
ing heaven.  "Breakfast  Head"  is  a  mighty  towering  fortress 
of  rock,  the  "  Devil's  Dancing  Point  "  is  bewitching,  and  "  Marble 
Mountain"  is  a  beautiful,  as  well  as  grand,  specimen  of  those 
"buildings  not  made  with  hands."  We  think  of  Norway,— 
Naerodale  and  Hardanger  Fjord  —  and  imagine  ourselves  in  that 
country  of  grand  scenery,  the  never  exhausted  subject  of  the 
tourist's  enthusiasm.  Or  have  we  been  transported  into  North 
Wales,  and  is  this  the  Hollyhead  Express  by  the  Eliojsig  Rocks, 
and  the  Penmaenmawrs  that  we  are  speeding  along.? 

52 


CROSSING   THE  ANCIENT  COLONY  BY  RAIL 

These  scenes,  notwithstanding  their  wild  indeed  we.rd  - 
untamed  desolation,  do  not  depress  one  as  a  forsaken  wilder- 
ness.  They  rather  ..,— '  with  the  thought  of  hidden  energy 
and  power,  and  unknown  forces  silently  at  work.  Here  would 
the  soul  expand,  and  grow  in  the  knowledge  of  God.  exploring 
this  masterly  stroke  of  His  workmanship.  Here  are  treasures 
in  r.ch  abundance  to  the  one  who  will  come  and  search  them  out. 

It  was  indeed  a  clever  stroke  of  ingenuity  and  enterprise 
which  pushed  this  railway  through  these  tremendous  wilder- 
nesses  (piled  in  almost  inaccessible  heaps  of  towering  rocks, 
ravines,  gorges,  and  precipices),  and  across  the  Colony.  It 
would  almost  seem  to  the  stranger  an  impossible  task,  so  re- 
mote is  it  from  all  the  necessary  implements  for  such  a  develop, 
ment;  yet  this  is  only  in  keeping  with  the  way  the  people  of 
Newfoundland  have  battled  with  obstacles  all  through  history.' 

Imperfect  as  our  train  service  may  be.  we  vastly  enjoy  the 
trip,  and  will  always  be  glad  that  we  have  known  this  titan  Island 
in  all  its  primitive  conditions,  and  have  witnessed  the  brave 
struggles,  and  supreme  efforts  of  those  who  strive  to  bring  this 
isolated  colony  under  the  advantages  of  other  lands. 

Five  miles  from  the  Bay  the  mountains  recede  from  the 
coast,  and  now  we  find  frequent  changes  from  the  jagged,  and 

NOTE   I,     -NOTE    BY    CROSS   COUNTRY    TRAIN,  MAY,   iSyg. 

'Apparently  we  are  expected  to  take  turns  watching  the  progress  of  our  lue- 
gage,  as  we  see  it  swaying  about  on  the  flat  car  behind.  And  it  proves  to  be  a 
constant  excitement.  Now  the  word  goes  around  that  our  mail  clerk  is  missintr 
He  IS  not  seen  upon  his  mail  bags.  Was  he  left  behind  at  the  Bay  of  Islands' 
Has  he  fallen  off  his  '•  postal  flat  car  oflice  "  ?  What  has  become  of  the  registered 
letters.'      Who  knows? 

,u  ,'^"£"°^  '*  '^  ""eported  that  bags  are  lost,  and  back  we  go.  Whose  bags  are 
triey?  That's  the  question;  and  how  many  more  have  been  left  at  other  times' 
We  must  have  a  looK.  After  a  miles  run  back  they  are  caught  up.  Onlv  mail 
bags,  after  all.  &         p  '  /  '"-» 

53 


TO  THE  OLD  CAPITALS  BY  THE  NEW  WAY 


CROSSING   THE  ANCIENT  COLONY  BY  RAIL 

bold  masses  of  rock  to  fertile,  and  well  timbered  ranges.  And 
even  by  the  river  side  are  very  considerable  stretches  of  level 
land.  Seven  m.les  from  the  Bay  is  a  large  district  which  was 
once  heavily  timbered,  hut  recently  swept  by  fire. 

At  2.40  P.  M.  we  are  travelling  by  Deer  Lake  a  long  narrow 
body  of  water  with  a  pebbly  bottom  -^eighteen  miles  in  length, 
and  a  mile  or  two  wide.  The  River  Humber  flows  in  at  one 
end,  and  out  at  the  other.  The  railway  runs  along  by  nearly  the 
whole  length  of  this  lake  ;  and  not  a  sign  of  a  settlement  is  to  be 
seen  ;  yet  it  looks  to  be  a  fine  district  for  a  community  of  farm- 
ers—the land  so  rich,  and  the  situation  so  fine.  Both  sides  of 
the  lake  are  densely  covered  with  a  tall  slim  growth  of  spruce, 
just  such  a  growth  as  farmers  in  some  countries  -up  along" 
would  like  to  find  when  they  went  to  the  woods  for  poles,  in  the 
days  of  worm  fences. 

Yet  we  are  told  of  two  young  men  who  lately  came  out  here 
to  settle,  from  offices  in  St.  John's,  and  made  farms  on  the  oppo- 
site side  of  Deer  Lake.  It  is  a  most  picturesque  spot,  yet  they 
need  to  be  remembered  in  our  petitions.  If  they  have  the 
courage  to  stay,  some  day  they  will  have  a  property  to  make 
them  some  recompense  for  all  their  privations  now.  We  are 
told  that  they  are  doing  finely. 

At  3.45  P.  M.  we  are  at  South  Brook,  and  here  we  meet 
the  passenger  train  from  Si.  John's,  which  is  an  event.  We 
exchange  mails  and  current  news.  Our  postal  clerk  gives  us 
every  chance  to  get  stamps,  and  mail  our  letters.  The  good 
fellow  runs  all  the  way  through  the  548  miles,  it  is  said  without 
sleep,  and  is  required  to  attend  to  the  receipt  and  delivery  of 
the  mails  at  all  the  stations.     We  think  he  might  have  half  a 

55 


TO  THE  OLD  CAPITALS  BY  THE   NEW  WAY 

night's  sleep,  and  possibly  do  that  too?  We  eagerly  grasp  the 
newspapers  for  "  news,"  and  behold,  they  bear  the  dates  of  the 
last  week  in  August,  and  this  is  the  ninth  of  September.  Our 
world  is  truly  very  much  by  itself. " 

At  4.10  P.  M.  we  roll  into  Grand  Lake  station,  finding  only 
the  station,  two  shanties,  and  two  residents  —  composing  the 
whole  town  which  has,  in  fact,  turned  out  to  meet  us.  At 
this  place  we  cross  the  large  bridge  over  Junction  River,  which 
carries  a  great  volume  of  water  from  Grand  Lake  ;  the  largest, 
and  longest  lake  on  Newfoundland,  sweeping  from  this  easterly 
end,  to  the  southwest,  over  sixty  miles.  Sir  John  Glover's 
Island,  twenty  miles  long,  is  one  of  the  most  interesting  belong- 
ings of  Grand  Lake.  Its  scenery  is  said  to  be  very  beautiful, 
and  one  of  its  remarkable  features  is  its  own  large  lake,  in  which 
is    another    island.     So    here   we    find    a  sequence  of  an  island 


NOTE  2. -NOTES    HY    CROSS   COUNTRY    TRAIN    JANUARY,  1900. 

"A  bulletin  of  war  news,  fresh  from  the  seat  of  war  in  South  Africa,  has  just 
been  seen,  and  here  we  are  in  the  wilds  of  Newfoundland,  The  Boers  are  giving 
the  British  a  troublesome  time  of  it.  Some  are  puzzled  to  know  how  the  enemy  is 
being  reinforced.  Can  anyone  doubt  v/ho  watches  the  crowds  around  the  buUetir. 
boards  of  the  great  cities;  or  who  goes  to  the  meetings  that  are  being  held  hei' 
and  there  to  urge  sympathizers  to  action  in  this  war  against  law  and  order,  and 
justice  ;  and  sees  those  who  take  a  chief  part  therein  ? 

All  these  conditions  are  so  wonderfully  predicted  by  Macaulay,  m  his  prophe- 
cies concerning  the  Huns  and  Vandals  which  he  foresaw  would  arise  in  our  modern 
titnps 


times. 


To  the  one  who  studies  the  oaths  and  pledges  -oaths  to  destroy  all  govern- 
ments-of  the  Black  Internationalists,  the  Bakunins,  and  the  moving  hordes  who 
know  no  nationa  ity.  an  army  constantly  increasing,  it  is  not  difficult  to  perceive 
where  t.ie  aid  and  sympathy  may  come  from.  This  army  is  created  by  the  whole- 
sale destruction  of  small  proprietorships;  and  this  is  the  armv  that  all  nations 
have  some  day,  to  reckon  with.  By  the  unwisdom  of  our  laws,  and  our  economic 
developments  fostered  thereby,  we  create  armies  to  overthrow  the  fabric  of  society 
and  government.  o">-iti/ 


56 


CROSSING   THE  ANCIENT  COLONY 


BY  RAIL 


M 


^ 


TO  THE  OLD  CAPITALS  BY  THE  NEW  WAY 

within  a  lake,  and  that  lake  within  a  large  island,  which  is  within 
a  still  larger  lake  within  a  larger  island       Newfoundland. ' 


Scene  on  Grand  Lake 


Sir  John  Glover,  who  was  governor  of  the  Colony  from  1876 
to  1881,  visited  the  Grand  Lake  region  one  summer,  and  Glover 
Island  was  named  for  him.' 


■'••The  approach  to  the  Grand  Narrows,  between  Glover's  Island  and  the 
mainland,  is  a  veritable  fairyland,  and  the  natural  beauties  are  so  enchanting  that 
it  would  be  pure  presumption  on  my  part  to  attempt  to  convey  an  adequate  idea  of 
the  scenery.  When  the  tourist  gets  an  opportunity  of  visiting  this  charming  spot, 
and  publishing  its  beauties  to  the  world,  all  the  other  well-known  picturesque 
scen»ry  wdl  have  to  take  a  second  place.  *    •    " 

"  There  was  no  day,  during  the  time  we  were  camped  at  the  head  of  the  lake, 
that  we  dii  not  sea  a  herd  of  caribou  —  sometimes  five,  now  ten  ;  in  the  evening  it 
may  be  only  three,  and  in  the  m^jrning  twenty.  They  were  allowed  to  pass  unmo- 
lested, as  we  did  not  want  them.  The  morning  we  started  down  the  lake,  on  our 
journey,  a  herd  of  six,  including  three  does,  two  fawns,  and  one  stag,  came  down  to 

n„"",r'l'"r';'^,?/.,V."'  ^^^^  ^'"^  advanced   into  the  water  to  cross  to  the  other  side." 
Mr.   P.   K     DEVINfc,  in   Christmas    Bulls 

'Dr.  Harvey  of  St.  Johns   accompanied    Sir  John   Glover  on   his  tour  to   this 

part  of  the  Colony,  and   from   him  we  have   the   pleasure  of  an  account  of  this   trip 

which  was  mauie  by  way  of  the  Bays  at  the   north,  with  Indian  guides,  and  tents 

and  canoes.     This  was  indeed  a  pleasure  trip  of  discovery, 

58 


M 


k'rU 


':iM'i 


v'i  >n 


■}-';);i!'    ■! 


X 


E 

u 

u 
C 


♦J 


o 
U 


TO  THE  OLD  CAPITALS  BY  THE  NEW  WAY 

The  conductor  tells  us  that  we  may  see  deer  today  or 
tonight  ;  this  is  the  region  where  they  are  found,  and  he  has 
often  seen  them.  Indeed,  ir  this  season  three  have  been  run 
down  and  killed  by  trains.  He  himself  has  seen  as  large  an 
herd  as  sixty  running  from  an  approaching  train.  And  we  are 
also  told  of  six  seen  running  from  a  train  that  came  this  way 
but  a  week  ago.  All  this  proving  to  us  the  wildness  of  the 
country  we  are  now  passing  through. 

This  narrow  neck  of  the  great  straggling  island,  lying  between 
the  head-waters  of  the  Humber  and  the  Lake,  and  the  deep  bays 
at  the  northeast  on  the  other  side,  is  the  route  of  the  deer  in  the 
autumn,  from  their  summer  feeding  ground  in  the  north,  to  the 
treeless  and  mossy  rocks  of  the  south  -  their  winter  ground. 
In  the  spring  they  go  north  again.  On  the  first  appearance  of 
winter  they  gather  in  great  herds,  from  five  hundred  to  a  thou- 
sand, and  away  they  go. 

We  are  on  time  at  Sandy  Pond  Stream  "  Sandy  Bottom." 
This  stream  flows  into  Grand  Lake,  which  in  its  turn  flows  into 
Deer  Lake,  and  that  into  the  Humber,  and  so  on  to  the  sea.  We 
are  off  again  shortly,  and  have  not  gone  far  when  we  see  indica- 
tions of  civilised  life,  and  judge  we  must  be  approaching  an 
important  station. 

We  are  now  at  the  Junction  -  this  name  has  been  changed 
to  "  Howley  Station,"  we  believe.''     To  our  right  are  the  much 

NOTE  5.      NOTE    BY   CROSS   COUNTRY   TRAIN,  MAY,  1899. 

"  At  4  P.  M.  we  are  at  Howley,  running  exactly  on  schedule  time, —  except 
that  it  is  the  wrong  day  by  twenty-four  hours,  —  and  here  we  wait  another  hour  for 
our  engine  to  recuperate,  as  it  is  reported  to  have  given  out  seriously.  However, 
after  a  time  it  is  patched  up,  or  another  one  secured,  and  we  are  on  our  way  once 
more. 

Shortly  after  leaving  Howley,  someone  sees  Caribou,  and  now  we  are  told  to 
look  toward  the  woods  at  our  right,  which  we  do,  and  are  rewarded,  for  about  one 

60 


CROSSING  THE  ANCIENT  COLONY  BY  RAIL 


5 

o 


TO  THE  OLD  CAPITALS  BY  THE  NEW  WAY 

talked  of  coal  deposits,  owned  by  the  Reids.  They  are  worked 
by  Mr.  Reid,  and  the  coal  is  used  upon  this  railway.  We  secure 
a  lump  from  a  loaded  car  upon  the  track  near  us  to  examine  it. 
It  does  not  seein  very  good,  but  experts  say  it  will  be  better 
farther  down.  There  is  plenty  of  this  coal  within  five  miles 
from  the  main  track.  If  it  proves  good,  it  will  be  of  great  value 
to  the  Island. 


hundred  yards  away  we  see  four  white  Caribou  trotting  from  us  as  we  have  seen 
cattle  d  at  the  approach  of  a  train,  but  with  heads  higher  in  the  air.  They  stop 
for  a  se.  J  just  as  we  get  opposite  to  them,  to  give  us  the  attention  our  importance 
deserve  .  .s  disturbers  of  the  peace  to  the  denizens  uf  the  forest,  jnd  then  disappear 
into  the  \ -oods  at  a  rapid  trot.  A  good  shot  from  our  tram  could  easily  have  felled 
one  of  them.     In  all  nine  were  seen. 


Meeting  of  the  Cross  Country  Trains,  May  lo 
(There  is  ".now  on  the  cn\v  catcher 


The  meeting  of  the  trains  today  is  of  more  than  ordinary  interest   for  now  we 
shall  know  something  more  of  the  condition  of  the  road  over  which  we  are  to  travel 
to   our  destination.     Deep   snow  at  the    Topsails    -ninth   of  May     -is  the    report 
The   snow  seen  on  the   cow-catcher  of  the  approaching  train  from   the  east   fullv 
confirms  this  interesting  report.     But  we  thorouL'hly  enjoy  the  novelty.  ' 

62 


CROSSING   THE  ANCIENT  COLONY  BY  RAIL 


a 


o 

X 


TO  THE  OLD  CAPITALS  BY  THE  NEW  WAY 


And  now  by  our  side  at  the  left  is  a  rocky  gulch,  two  or 
three  hundred  feet  deep,  with  a  small  stream  finding  its  tortuous 
way  through  it.  It  is  a  most  wonderful  succession  of  peaks  and 
crags  ;  some  of  the  peaks  running  up  like  towers  and  spires,  and 


See  le  of  Deer  by  Cross  Country  Train 
By  pennissioii  of  S.  H.  Parsons) 

then  again  heaped  in  niassiveness  like  a  rambling  castle.  Rock, 
rock,  everywhere  ;  enough  to  supply  material  for  every  purpose 
during  all  time. 

And   now.  apparently,  we  descend  from  our  elevation,  and 
find  ourselves  at  the  bed  of  the  stream.     We  could  wade  through 

64 


CROSSING   THE  ANCIENT  COLONY  BY  RAIL 


it  now  although  it  bears  indications  of  being  a  huge  water-course 
in  freshet  time.'' 

At  this  point  we  stop  to  take  water,  which  is  led  from  a 
stream  forming  a  pretty  fall  from  a  perpendicular  height  of  over 
two  hundred  feet.  The  leader  is  so  constructed  that  the  fireman 
can  turn  the  connection  on  or  off  without  leaving  his  engine. 

And  now  we  pass  through  a  most  miserable  country,  bogs 
that  cannot  be  drained,  and  rocks  that  cannot  be  cleared  away 
—  miles  and  miles  of  it.  And  after  this  a  grand  scene.  Far  off, 
to  our  left,  is  another  long  lake  Sandy  Point  Lake.  We 
appear  to  be  elevated  four  or  five  hundred  feet  above  it.  Where 
at  one  "  eye  sweep"  there  seems  to  be  ten  miles  of  lake  within 
our  reach,  and  miles  and  miles  beyond  of  forest,  wilderness,  and 
rock.  What  a  grand  view  it  is  !  Just  such  a  view  as  Hamerton 
describes  in  his  essay  on  Landscapes  ;  he  says  : 

"  No  description  can  adequately  prepare  us  for  it.  The 
strange  thing  about  it  is.  that  it  is  •  pure  nature  "." 

How  vast  the  sky  is  ;  one  seems  to  see  so  much,  and  yet  the 
thought  travels  past  all  the  vision  to  the  limitless  sea  of  space, 
to  the  unknown,  but  the  alluring      the  coveted. 

At  5.4s  we  are  working  up  a  very  steep  grade  ;  it  is  as  much 
as  our  engines  can  manage.  We  are  approaching  The  Topsails 
the    highest,   wildest,   most    rugged,  and    coldest   part  of   the 


NOTE    I).       NOTES    HY    CROSS    COUNTRY     IKAIN.  MAY.   1839. 

""Kitty's  Brook"  is  today  a  preat  broaa  river,  spreading  out  to  nearly  an 
eighth  of  a  mile  in  some  places. '  We  now  think  of  it  as  being  the  home  of  another 
thousand  islands,  for  as  such  it  seems,  as  it  contains  many  islands  in  the  freshet 
time.  And  this  is  where  we  saw  the  broad  dry  water-course  last  September  — of 
rocks,  stones,  and  gravel. 


I 


65 


TO  THE  OLD  CAPITALS   BY  THE  NEW  WAY 

Colony.  F'ar  ahead  is  a  i^reat  mountain  ranyt-  of  solid  rock,  and 
farther  still,  in  the  distance,  seem  ^jreat  plateaus  -  also  of  bare 
rock   -  surrounded  by  lumpish  hills  of  the  same. 

Three  conical  peaks  attract  our  attention,  ten  or  more  miles 
away.  As  they  are  seen  now  they  look  like  the  figures  of 
couchant  lions.' 

As  we  wind  our  way  up  by  the  side  of  one  of  these  moun- 
tains of  rock,  we  find  that  the  conical  heaps,  which  verily  pierce 
the  clouds,  are  on  either  side  of  our  track.  We  can  also  see,  in 
the  distance  to  the  right,  the  Fore  Topsail,  and  the  Main  Top- 
sail ;  and  on  the  left,  tov/ering  right  above  us  as  we  pass  them, 
the  Gaff  Topsail,  and  the  Mizzen  Topsail, 

They  constantly  change  form  as  we  watch  them,  until  they 
are  finally  lost  to  view,  after  having  seen  them  for  over  two 
hours.  This  must  indeed  be  a  trying  place  for  winter  railroad- 
ing ;  this  land  of  never  ending  rock  ! 

Night  is  coming  on,  the  sun  is  setting  in  the  far  distance,  at 
the  very  verge  of  our  world,  and  apparently  setting  it  on  fire. 
The  long  shadows  spread  into  the  solemn  twilight  of  the  wilder- 
ness.    And  the  mysterious  time   has  come  when  one  feels  the 

NOTii  7.       NOTE3    BY    CKQSS   COUNTRY    TKAIN,  MAY,   i8qq. 

■And  again  we  travel  by  lakes,  rivers,  snow,  ami  ice,  upon  i  vast  scale.  For 
we  are  at  the  highest  elevation  on  th.'  Island,  and  the  view  tor  many  miles  is  unob- 
structed, except  by  The  Topsails,  which  this  evening  appear  m  shape  like  huge 
rounded  sugar-loafs.  They  tower  above  u  ;  many  hundred  leet.  and  yet  we  are  told 
that  this  is  1800  feet  above  the  sea.  Notwithstanding,  thjre  are  cuttmgs  for  our 
roadway  here,  and  beside  us  for  a  good  distance  we  have,  at  times,  snow  above  the 
tops  of  the  cai;;.  It  is  very  novel  and  to  be  enjoyed,  but  not  for  long,  as  it  is  de- 
cidedly colder. 

Our  grade  is  now  far  down  toward  the  bay  coming  in  from  the  north.  The 
rapidity  with  which  we  rise  and  descend  i,;  shown  us  by  a  j';entleman  traveller,  who 
has  an  altitude  barometer  which  gauges  the  height  and  depth  of  our  descent. 

66 


CROSSING    THE  ANCIENT  COLONY  BY  RAIL 

peculiar  sensations  of  this  time  of  the  wilds  of  nature,  of  its 
weird  and  awful  grandeur. 

"  Now  Heav'ns  azure  deepens  ;  and  where  rock-rills  run, 
Rest  on  the  shadowy  mountain's  airy  brow 
Clouds  that  have  ta'en  their  farewell  of  the  sun  ;  " 

and  the  sounds  peculiar  to  day  expire,  and  then  dim  moments 
have  come  which  intervene  between  day  and  the  beginning  of 
the  night  march  of  the  beasts,  and  "  the  silence  is  sublime." 


67 


TO  THE  OLD  CAPITALS  BY  THE  NEW  WAY 


> 

X 


O 


i 


CROSSING   THE  ANCIEN-  COLONY  BY  RAIL 


B\'  Seal   Rockfa 


THE    TOPSAILS    TO    NOTRE    DAME    JUNCTION 

A  short  time  after  leaving  The  Topsails  we  arrive  at  Quarry 
(now  Cabot  Station).  This  is  quite  a  settlement,  with  low  log 
and  earth  shanties,  and  canvas  tents.  Quarry  takes  its  name 
from  the  industry  of  the  place  the  quarrying  of  granite,  which 
is  mdicated  by  the  large  piles  of  granite  cubes  lying  by  the  track, 
and  which  prove  to  be  for  •'  Mr.  Reid's  "  street  improvements  in 
the  city  of  St.  John's. 

As  night  closes  in  before  we  reach  West  Brook,  Joe  Glades 
Pond,  Badger's  Brook,   and   Bushy  Pond,  v/e  do  not   see  all    of 

69 


TO  THE  OLD  CAPITALS  BY  THE  NEW  WAY 


this  section  of  the  country  that  we  wish,  but  make  the  best  use 
of  our  chances.  ' 

The  quiet  of  rest  has  lulled  the  life  about  us  into  stillness, 
and  we  too  sink  under  the  irresistible  repose  ;  and  resting  in  our 
comfortable    berths  compose  ourselves  to  ponder  the  long  day 


Cimp  in  the  Pine  Woods—  Badjjer's  Krook 

just  passed  with  the  mysteries  of  nature.  It  is  peculiarly  pleas- 
ant and  satisfying  to  approach  the  circle  of  the  great,  silent 
secrets  of  creation.      Even  to  touch  behind  the  veil  of  the  temple 

'  The  names  of  the  stations  liave  been  changed  respectively  to  Caribou,  Winter. 
Dawe,  and  McCaHum. 


70 


CROSSING   THE  ANCIENT  COLONY  BY  RAIL 


with  a  deep  thought  is  inspiring,  And  every  breath  today,  and 
every  thought,  has  been  upHfting  to  the  spiritual  man,  as  well  as 
curative  and  soothing  to  the  animal  senses.  The  grateful  wafts, 
first  from  the  broad  lake,  and  then  from  the  deep,  fir  forest,  as 
of   old,  are    strengthening    and    life-giving    to    the    physical    and 


liaJ^t-rs  Brook.  Crossing   Kailroad  Hrid^t- 

mental.  The  sleep  brought  by  these  healthful,  pure  solitudes 
restores  the  equilibrium  more  than  many  nights  in  the  crowded 
city,  when  to  gain  even  one  hour  of  normal  sleep  is  often  an 
effort  ;  where  physicians  may  try  in  vain  to  quiet  over-taxed, 
and  worn  nerves,  and  cure  insomnia. 

Why  the  creatures  of  the   highest  work  of  the   Creator  still 

71 


TO  THE  OLD  CAPITALS  BY  THE  NEW  WAY 

herd  in  the  dark,  loathsome,  Godless  courts  and  alleys  of  the 
great  cities  when  there  is  a  beautiful,  delightful,  and  sufficient 
world  of  pure  air,  and  bounties  for  the  gathering,  is  a  greater, 
sadder  problem  than  has  yet  been  solved. 

These  thoughts  crowd  upon  us  as  we  unhinge  our  blinds, 
and  gaze  out  into  the   clear  night.     The  scene   is   now  by  the 


^1, 


View  of  Exploits  River  from  Railroad 

River  Exploits —  the  largest  river  of  the  whole  Colony;  some- 
times it  courses  its  way  by  our  right  for  quite  a  long  stretch, 
occasionally  for  ten  miles  or  more. 

The  countless,  brilliant  worlds  in  the  great  space  above  are 
caught  and   held  by  the  water,  and  now  sparkle  in  the  dancing 


72 


CROSSING   THE  ANCIENT  COLONY  BY  RAIL 


rapids,  and  again  the  whole  heavens  are  mirrored  in  the  quiet 
deeps.  These  wonderful,  starry  worlds  that  seem  overflowing 
with  great  secrets,  could  we  but  hear,  seem  "  leaning  down  to 
whisper  in  the  ear  of  our  souls."  They  tell  of  the  endless 
lelight  and  peace  to  come  when,  the  v/ork  finished  here,  we 
pass  to  the  great  light  of  love,  justice,  and  truth.  Out  from 
them  tonight  the  loved  ones  who  have  gone  before,  and  those 
far  beyond  the  waters,  seem  to  touch  as  by  a  very  presence. 
Verily,  not  as  we  ars  told  that  it  is  difficult  to  reach  those  who 
have  left  us.     We  are  already  with  them. 

How  inestimable  arc  the  deep,  hallowed  friendships,  the 
lonely  traveller  knows  as  no  other  being  can.  How  truly  they 
are  enshrined  in  the  '•  amber  of  memory."  That  was  no  idle 
assertion  of  Cicero  when  speaking  of  his  departed  friend,  Scipio  : 
"  Friends,  though  absent,  are  still  present  ;  though  in  poverty, 
they  are  rich  ;  though  weak,  yet  in  the  enjoyment  of  health  ; 
and  what  is  still  more  difficult  to  assert,  though  dead,  they  are 
alive." 

At  Bishop's  Falls,  a  few  miles  from  Exploits  Station,  the 
river  is  crossed  by  a  fine  stone  and  iron  bridge,  through  which 
the  water  is  now  rushing  at  a  rapid  rate. 

A  little  way  down  by  the  north,  the  Exploits  River  connects 
with  the  Notre  Dame  Bay.  In  past  days  the  Indian  had  posses- 
sion here  —  the  tribe  of  the  cruel  Boethics  ;  and  the  White  Man 
made  several  expeditions  to  the  Notre  Dame  Bay  in  order  to 
hold  peace  consultations  with  these  fierce  tribes  of  the  wilds. 

Just  one  hundred  and  thirty-seven  years  ago  Scott,  the 
ship-master,  and  one  of  the  pioneers  of  peace  and  good-will, 
landed    here,    built    his    temporary    fort,    and    then    started    out 

73 


TO  THE  OLD  CAPITALS  BY  THE  NEW  WAY 


> 

c2 


a 


a 

b 


o. 
o 


CROSSING   THE  ANCIENT  COLONY  BY  RAIL 


unarmed  to  the  savage  Boethics  for  friendly  conference.  Once 
in  their  power,  the  principal  of  the  mission  was  stabbed  in  the 
back;  others  of  the  party  were  pierced  with  arrows,  and  the 
remainder  fled   for  safety. 

It  is  now  but  seventy-nine  years  ago  that  H.  M.  S.  Pilot 
came  here  by  the  Notre  Dame  Bay,  and  landed  a  party  to  make 
another  attempt  to  conciliate  the  wild  Boethics.  After  an  ap- 
parently sufficient,  and  satisfactory  consultation,  two  mariners 
were  left  to  further  the  peace  settlements.  Later  they  were 
found  together,  backs  uppermost,  their  feet  toward  the  river,  and 
their  heads  severed  from  their  bodies. 

The  Red  Man  was  obviously  treacherous  to  the  last,  having 
no  quarter  for  the  Pale  Face.  But,  on  the  other  hand,  was  he 
not  frequently  cruelly  and  unjustly  treated  by  his  civilised, 
Christian  brother? 

The  tribe  of  the  Boethics  disappeared  long  ago,  no  one 
knows  just  where  ;  whether  it  be  to  Labrador,  or  whether  they 
have  been  exterminated  by  other  tribes.  - 

They  are  gone,  and  another  era  and  another  people  control 
the  Exploits.  Nations  and  races  come  and  go,  struggle  with 
ambitions  and  failures,  and  are  pushed  into  the  great,  silent 
beyond  by  the  more  powerful  newcomers.  Their  names  are 
known   no  more.     One  cannot  hut   fear  as   the  eternal  question 


•'  Near  "  Bonnie  Bay  "  on  the  west  coast,  there  is  a  cliff  of  hard  flint  where  the 
Indians  were  supposed  to  have  secured  the  material  for  their  arrow-heads.  On  a 
strand  near  this  cliff  are  now  found  many  heaps  of  arrow  clippings,  indicating  a 
numerous,  and  once  formidable  people.  Here,  also,  are  found  beneath  the  rocks 
and  sand  upon  the  beach,  remains  of  their  camp-fires,  and  occasionally  perfect 
arrow-heads  At  Grand  Lake  both  spear  and  arrow-heads  have  been  found.  This 
section  was  probably  one  of  their  b.st  hunting  grounds. 

75 


TO  THE  OLD  CAPITALS  BY  THE  NEW   WAY 


CROSSING   THE  ANCIENT  COLONY  BY  RAIL 


recurs  to  him.  What  of  them  and  us  in  the  fine  alchemy  of  jus- 
tice in  the  great  hereafter?  Will  it  all  be  as  nothmg,  or  will 
each  one  be  given  a  place  and  work?  With  these  questions 
arising  before  us,  we  can  well  absolve  those  who  strive  to  make 
a  mark  to  live  after  them,  if  it  be  but  for  a  short  duration.  Yet 
that  sad  thought  ever  haunts  us  of  the  races  and  peoples  who 
have  melted  into  the  unknown,  and  have  no  place  within  the 
affairs  of  this  planet.     Like  the  Boethics,  we  know  not  where. 

'•  The  blue  smoke  of  their  camp-fires  doth  curl  aloft  no  more  ; 
Their  softly-gliding  birch  canoes  lie  crumbling  on  the  shore. 
There's  silence  in  the  forest,  and  silence  o  er  the  land, 
The  last   Red    Man  has  passed   away  by  the  ruthless  White 
Man's  hand." 

The  Boethics  have  disappeared  as  the  buffalo  and  elk  and 
antelope  and  mountain  goat  in  America  ;  as  the  marten  in 
England  ;  and  as  the  badger  is  going. 

Are  we  progressed  much  beyond  our  savage  ancestors  who 
killed  for  food  and  self  preservation  ?  Do  not  we  seek  with  equal 
avidity  our  harmless  brothers  of  the  forest,  and  for  i,/r,isin;-  .' 

The  sportsman  thinks  himself  a  very  clever  fellow  if  he  is 
frequently  successful  in  felling  the  harmless  deer,  bagging  his 
numerous  braces  of  birds,  and  landing  his  dozens  of  quiver- 
ing fish.  All  Un-  jiiiri  tijo'i-i :  He  denounces  that  unsportsmanlike 
proceeding  which  impels  the  poor  settler  to  kill  his  game  from 
necessity.  Thus  the  consensus  of  opinion  of  society  and  the 
governing  class  favours,  and  makes  legal,  this  instinct  of  our 
savage  natures. 

In  this  country  is  a  great  domain  Vvith  its  patches  of  forest, 
and  its  open  feeding  grounds,  its  wildernesses,  lakes,  and  count- 
less  streams,  where   the   wild   animals,   the    birds,   and   the   fish 

77 


TO  THE  OLD  CAPITALS  BY  THE   NEW  WAY 


may  continue  on  in  their  native  force  and  completeness  without 
a  shadow  of  loss  or  hinderance  to  nidustrial  progress  and 
development. 

So  surely  as  man  comes  to  these  forest  kingdoms  as  a  dev- 
astator of  a  domain  more  powerful  than  that  made  by  man. 
being  ruled  by  the  silent,  but  inexorable  ruler,  Nature,  so  surely 
will  the  punishment  of  his  vandalism  be  meted  out  to  him  an 
hundred-fold       to  him  and  those  who  follow  after  him. 

The  time  will  surely  come  when  there  will  be  a  futile  regret 
that  some  place  like  this  has  not  been  reserved  for  the  wild 
animals,  where  they  might  pursue  their  original  habits.  Where 
their  histories,  natures,  and  instincts  might  be  studied  for  the 
benefit  of  science,  where  man  might  learn  of  secrets  taught  only 
to  them,  who  creep  closer  to  the  hidden  ways  of  nature  than 
he  can.  When  they  are  vanished  he  will  learn  with  bitter- 
ness that  all  things  are  made  for  a  wise  and  intelligent  purpose, 
not  for  the  sport  of  savage  natures, ' 


'"The  extinction  of  a  lar^je  or  highly  organized  animal  is  a  serious  matter. 
U  is  always  dangerous  to  disturb  the  balance  of  Nature  by  removing  a  poise;  some 
of  the  worst  plagues  have  arisen  in  this  way 

"We  do  not  know  without  much  and  careful  experiment,  how  vast  a  service 
that  animal  might  have  done  to  mankind  as  a  domestic  species. 

"The  force  of  this  will  be  more  apparent  if  we  recollect  how  much  the  few 
well-known  domestic  species  have  done  for  the  advancement  of  our  race.  Who  can 
decide  which  has  done  n.ore  for  mankind,  tlie  cow  or  the  steam-engine,  the  horse 
or  electricity,  the  sheep  or  the  pr;ntmg-press.  the  dog  or  the  rifle,  the  ass  or  the 
loom.    '    '    ' 

"  And  he  today,  therefore,  who  deliberately  'xterminates  any  large  and  useful, 
possibly  domesticable,  wild  animal,  may  be  doing  more  harm  to  the  country  than 
though  he  had  robbed  it  of  its  navy. 

"  This  is  the  most  obvious  economic  view  of  the  question  of  extermination. 
But  there  is  another,  a  yet  higher  one,  which  in  the  end  will  prove  more  truly 
economic.  We  are  informed,  on  excellent  authority,  that  man's  most  important 
business  here  is  to  •  know  himself.' 

"  Evidently  one   cannot   comprehend   the   nature  of   a  wheel    in   a   machine   bv 
study  of  the  wheel  alone,  one  must    c. insider    the  whole    machine,  or  fail,     .^nd 

78 


CROSSING    THE  ANCIENT   COLONY  BY  RAIL 


The  Exploits  drams  a  very  lart;c  part  of  the  southwt-st  of 
Newfoundland.  Its  pnnc.pal  tributaries  are  streams  runnm, 
from   the  long,  narrow  lakes  which  occupy  a  large  part  of  the 


Station  at   Bxplnits  River 

centre  of  the  Island,  stretching  away  southwestward  to  the 
parallel  of  St.  George's  Bay,  and  not  far  from  the  Ray  Mountains. 

since  it  is  established  that  man  is  merely  a  wheel  in  the  great  machine  called  the 
universe,  he  can  never  achieve  a  tumprehension  of  himself  without  study  of  the 
other  wheels  also.  Therefore,  to  know  himself,  man  must  study  not  only  himself 
but  all  things  to  which  he  is  related.      This  is  the  motive  of  all  scientific  research 

••  There  is  no  part  of  our  environmi;nt  that  is  not  tilled  with  precious  facts  bear- 
ing on  the  •  great  problem,'  and  the  nearer  they  are  to  us  the  more  they  contain  for 
us.  He  who  wiil  explain  the  house  sparrow's  e.^emption  from  bacteriological  infec- 
tions the  white  bears  freedom  from  troubles  to  uric  acid  in  the  blood,  or  the 
buffalo  s  and  the  flamingo's  immunity  from  the  deadliest  malaria,  is  on  the  way  to 
conferring  immunities  on  man.  Each  advance  in  science  enables  us  to  get  more 
facts  out  of  the  same  source,  so  that  something  that  is  studied  today  may  yield  a 
hundred  timt;s  the  value  that  it  could,  or  did,  ten  years  ago,  and  if  that  source  of 
knowledge  h;ippens  to  be  nerish;iblc,  one  can  do  the  race  no  greater  harm  than  by 
destroying  it  "    -  Mr    ERNEST   bhTON    IHOMI'SON  ni  tin:  Cjnturv  Ma[;a.!.ni; 

79 


^ 


IMAGE  EVALUATION 
TEST  TARGET  (MT-S) 


k 


/. 


{./ 


^  .^. 


'^ 


A 


I/. 


1.0 


I.I 


m.  125 


■«  Ui    12.2 


««    136      i 

Mi.     Iw 


IL25  1  u 


m 


14 

1.6 


Hiotographic 

Sciences 
Corporation 


23  WEST  MAIN  STREET 

WEBSTER,  N.Y.  14580 

(716)  872-4503 


TO  THE  OLD  CAPITALS  BY  THE  NEW  WAY 


The  Blacksmith's  Forge 


NOTRE  DAME  JUNCTION  TO  PLACENTIA  JUNCTION 

Notre  Dame  Bay  is  the  junction  with  a  short  road  of  about 
twenty  miles  to  Burnt  Bay.  This  is  one  of  the  greatest  tho- 
roughfares for  the  steamers  plying  about  the  numerous  bays  at 
the  northeast  part  of  the  Colony.  In  the  winter  all  these  bays 
are  frozen  over,  when  the  only  conveyance  is  by  sleighs  over  the 
ice,  which  mode  of  travel  is  often  difficult  and  dangerous.  But 
the  summer  tour  through  this  part  of  the  country  is  very  de- 
lightful, for  the  scenery  is  magnificent  ;  by  this  way  one  may 
also  reach  the  rich  copper  mines  of  Bett's  Cove  and  Tilt  Cove. 

At  Glenwood,  the  first  important  station  after  leaving  Notre 

80 


CROSSING   THE  ANCIENT  COLONY  BY  RAIL 


Dame  Junction,  we  cross  the  Gander  River.  This  is  another  of 
the  large  rivers  of  the  Color  y.  The  Gander  takes  its  rise  far  to 
the  southwest,  heside  some  conical  mounts  called  Partridge 
Berry  Hills,  not  more  than  fifty  miles  from  Hermitage  Bay  on 
the  southern  coast.  After  running  its  course  about  one  hundred 
miles.  It  drops  into  the  long,  narrow  laire  called  Gander  Lake, 


Glcnwood  —  Gander  Kivtr 

into  which  a  number  of  other  rivers  and  brooks  flow,  while 
the  Gander  rushes  on.  past  Glenwood  and  our  track,  away  to 
the  sea  with  all  the  united  force  of  these  rivers.' 

NOTK  1.   NOTKS  BY  CROSS  COUNTRY  IKAIN  -A  FOREST  NEAR  GANDER 

HIVEK,  AUGUST.  iSqq 
'  The  autuinii  tuns  are  very  fine,  although  not  equal  to  the  magnificent  ones 
seen  in  New  Brunswick  by  the  river  St  John's,  or  in  Nova  Scotia  by  the  Lahave, 
for  here  there  are  none  of  the  Hock  Maple  variety,  and  few  of  the  White  Maple. 
Yet  the  autumn  loliage  is  very  brilliant,  notwithstanding.  The  frost,  which  nipped 
the  potatoes  the  other  dav,  made  the  forests  very  beautiful,  especially  so  in  this 
soft,  full  autumn  morning.  We  wonder  if  science  will  ever  discover  why  autumn 
leaves  upon  the  same  tree  turn  to  such  varieties  of  colour.  One  inust  penetrate 
deeper  into  the  treasure-house  of  Nature  to  gain  this  secret. 

8l 


TO  THE  OLD  CAPITALS  BY  THE  NEW  WAY 


a 

e 

a 
O 


3 

X 
a 
a 


CROSSING   THE  ANCIENT  COLONY  BY  RAIL 


It  is  said  that  the  principal  part  of  Gandt-r  Lake  seldom 
free^ies  over.  It  is  one  hundred  Luhoms  deep  in  places,  and  its 
surface  is  seventy-five  fathoms  above  sea  level. 

There  is  much  fine  timber  and  farm  land  about  the  district 
of  the  Gander.  At  Glenwood  is  a  large  lumber  establishment 
and  saw  mill,  operated  by  the  Glenwood  Lumber  Company,  of 
which  a  well-known  Nova  Scotian  is  president. 

At  Benton,  twenty-six  miles  from  Glenwood.  is  Soulis  Brook, 
over  which  the  railway  crosses.  This  is  another  centre  of  a 
lumbering  enterprise.  Large  piles  of  lumber  are  passed.  On 
enquiry  it  is  found  that  they  belong  to  "  Mr.  Reid."  Passing  on 
to  Gambo,  Alexander  Bay.  and  Terra  Nova,  some  considerable 
tracts  of  fairly  good  land  are  seen,  but  much  of  it  is  useless  for 
tree  or  plant  life.  ' 

NOTE  i.  NOTES  »V  LKOSS  COUNTRY  TKAIN  NEAR  QUEL  i^OND,  DECEMBER,  1899. 
'■'We  have  a  large  number  of  labouniif.'-  men  on  board,  on  iheir  way  from  the 
Whitney  Works  in  Sydney,  C.  B  .  to  their  homes  in  Newfoundland  for  the  hohduys, 
Someone  remarks  that  they  must  do  this  if  it  requires  the  proceeds  cf  the  next  si.x 
months'  labour  to  pay  the  expenses  of  the  trip.  This  remark,  although  in  this  case 
from  one  kindly  disposed,  is  a  fair  instance  of  the  general  attitude  assumed  by  the 
upp'.-r  classes  toward  the  labouring  man.  it  is  the  symptom  of  a  disease  surely 
eating  into  the  life  of  the  State  and  Nation. 

So  long  as  the  labourer  is  regarded  as  a  machine,  and  his  natural,  higher 
instincts,  and  desires  for  home  and  family,  and  spiritual  pleasures  disregarded  and 
thwar»eJ  by  the  class  above  him,  just  so  long  will  tie  sink  into  a  deeper  state  of 
abnormal  apathy  an!  brutality  yet  not  brutality,  for  he  is  neither  man  nor  brute 
since  he  obeys  no  laws  natural  to  his  estate.  And  the  slow  powerful  poison  of  his 
unnatural  condition  is  that  which  will  level  the  State  to  corruption  and  depletion. 

The  vast  army  who  labour  are  as  the  hands  which  frame  that  which  the 
higher  intelligence  dictates.  Let  them  be  coarse,  and  unwieldly,  and  eaten  with 
leprosy,  and  the  fabric  which  they  weave  will  be  as  they  are,  and  the  purpose  of  the 
higher  intelligence  will  be  lost. 

At  Gull  Pond  the  train  comes  to  a  standstill.  The  engine  has  given  out,  and 
as  W3  apparently  must  stay  here  an  indefinite  time,  all  make  the  best  of  the  situa- 
tion A  large  party  is  out  on  the  lake  trying  the  skating.  We  must  have  passed 
thousands  of  acres  of  the  most  perfect  ice  in  the  last  two  or  three  hours  —  smooth 
as  a  mirror.  Another  party  is  looking  for  berries  that  may  have  escaped  destruc- 
tion by  frost.  Finally,  however,  an  engine  from  St.  John's  comes  to  our  relief,  and 
we  move  on  jur  way. 

83 


TO  THE  OLD  CAPITALS  BY  THE  NEW  WAY 


CROSSING   THE  ANCIENT  COLONY  BY  RAIL 


At  "Come  by  Chance  Station'  is  the  overland  path,  or 
"patie"  to  the  head  of  Placentia  Bay,  and  the  site  of  a  large 
pulp  manufacturing  busmess.  Arrived  at  Tickle  Harbour,  the 
interesting  discovery  is  made  that  wc  are  travelling  over  a 
very  narrow  isthmus,  with  glimpses  of  Placentia  Bay  on  the 
right,  and  then  of  Trinity  Bay  on  the  left.  The  track  is  now 
elevated  upon  a  high  ridge  between  these  waters,  and  the  scenery 
becomes  varied  and  fine.' 

Ore  of  our  fellow  passengers,  to  whom  we  are  greatly  in- 
debted for  much  that  we  have  learned  about  this  Colony,  tells 
an  amusing  story,  which  we  repeat.  It  is  related  to  a  church 
matter  of  a  little  village  upon  Trinity  Bay.  A  very  serious 
matter  it  was  for  a  time 

"  Many  years  ago,  that  is  to  say,  perhaps,  when  we  were 
boys,  and  stoves  were  just  introduced  into  this  country,  a  hard 
coal  stove  was  procured  with  much  satisfaction  and  pride  for  the 
village  church.  The  stove  was  put  in  place,  and  a  fire  lighted, 
but  it  refused  to  make  any  blaze.  It  was  poked  and  poked,  but 
not  a  bit  of  heat  or  blaze  would  it  make.  Each  of  the  parish- 
ioners had  a  chance  to  exhibit  his  skill  in  this  line  — and  every- 
one thinks  he  knows  just  how  to  make  a  fire.  Finally  a  special 
meeting  was  called  to  make  one  last  trial.  It  was  proving  a 
failure  as  ail  other  efforts  had  been,  and  the  conclusion  was  to 
throw  it  aside,  when  a  gentleman  who  had  had  some  experience 
with  coal  stoves  came  upon  the  scene  when  one  of  the  disap- 
pointed   ones   was    relieving    his    feelings    by    exclaiming,    •  We 


'  "  Come  by  Chance  Station  "  has  been  changed  to  Whiteway .  It  was  certainly 
a  very  great  shame  to  change  the  name  ot  this  place,  as  it  was  characteristic  —  and 
we  know  to  a  certamty  that  "  thereby  hangs  a  tale  " 

85 


TO  THE  OLD  CAPITALS  BY  THE  NEW  WAY 

might  have  known  better;  it  is  a  Methodist  stove,  and  anti- 
Christ  coal.  Notwithstanding,  that  stove  still  does  its  part  — 
to  '  melt  the  frozen  and  warm  the  chill.'    " 

Other  interesting  characteristics  and  sayings  of  these  good 
people  are  related.  The  "grannies"  of  Trinity  Bay  are  posi- 
tive in  their  belief  that  a  child  born  at  the  full  moon  is  liable 
to  have  its  tongue  hung  in  the  middle,  and  consequently  wag  at 
both  ends  ;  and  if  born  at  midnight,  it  will  be  endued  with  power 
to  see  spirits.  Asthma,  it  is  claimed,  will  be  cured  by  wearing 
a  lock  of  the  first  hair  of  a  child  in  a  bag  around  the  neck. 
Lumbago,  sores,  and  evils  are  cured  in  a  novel  way  by  the  child 
that  was  born  feet  foremost.  If  they  wish  to  show  the  stranger 
hospitality,  they  may  give  him  "lashings"  of  good  things  — a 
veritable  scoff.  If  the  weather  is  poor  for  fishing,  there  has  been 
too  much  ••  hindersome  "  weather. 

Placentia  Junction  takes  its  name  from  the  fact  that  here 
the  Cross  Country  Road  connects  with  the  road  which  runs 
between  the  present  capital,  St.  John's,  and  Placentia,  which  was 
the  capital  set  up  by  the  French,  and  was  thus  occupied  during 
a  term  of  dual  occupancy  of  Newfoundland  by  the  French  and 
English. 

Ferryland  was  the  English  capital  long  before  St.  John's 
was  known  as  such.  Government  was  established  in  Ferryland 
by  George  Calvert,  the  first  Lord  Baltimore,  who  colonised  that 
part  of  the  Colony  known  as  Avalon.  He  was  later  founder 
of  Maryland,  and  the  city  of  Baltimore. 

From  here  the  site  of  the  old  capital,  Ferryland,  is  reached 
via  St.  John's  ;   and   Placentia  is  reached  by  the  line  of  rail  we 


86 


CROSSING   THE  ANCIENT  COLONY  BY  RAIL 

are  now  joining  ;  not  by  ways  known  in  the  days  of  the  Stuart 
kin^s. 

Sometime  we  will  visit  these  historic  spots  of  interest,  and 
write  of  them  ;  nov;  our  attention  is  {^iven  to  St.  John's,  the 
present  yet  venerable  capital  of  Newfoundland. 


Log  Cabin  Hotel 


87 


TO  THE  OLD  CAPITALS   BY  THE  NEW  WAY 


PLACENTIA   JUNCTION    TO    ST.  JOHN'S 

The  next  station  after  leaving  Placentia  Junction  is  Whit- 
bourne  Junction,  where  a  line  branches  off  to  Harbor  Grace,  and 
Carbonear,  the  two  largest  out  port  -,  of  Newfoundland.  They  are 
respectively  twenty-four  and  thirty-six  miles  from  Whitbourne, 
which  is  the  only  inland  town  in  the  Colony. 

To  the  right  of  the  station  is  a  farm  establishment  of  some 
importance,  surrounded  by  well  cultivated,  pretty,  sloping  helds, 
and  tidy  fences  ;  all  suggesting  prosperity,  enterprise,  and  com- 
fort, but  which,  surprising  as  it  may  seem,  are  little  appreciated 
by  the  majority  of  travellers.  So  materialistic  is  this  age  that 
the  quiet  of  a  country  home  holds  small  inducements  to  the 
average  American,  whose  Mecca  is  the  crowded  city  where 
leisure  and  thought  are  not  demanded  by  him.  The  owner  is 
named  as  a  popular  leader  of  the  opposition  to  Her  Majesty's 
government  in  the  Colony,  and  soon  to  be  the  Premier,  as  the 
present  rulin:;  party  is  said  to  be  losing  ground.' 

Whitbourne  has  t'ne  appearance  of  being  fairly  prosperous, 
although  It  cannot  assume  any  great  proportions,  as  it  depends 
mainly  upon  the  little  labour  demanded  by  the  workshops  of  the 
Newfoundland  Railway,  which  are  located  here. 

A  neat  little  Church  of  England  is  prettily  situated  upon  an 
elevation  to  the  left.  The  baptismal  font  of  this  church  being 
the  principal  object  of  value,  as  once  having  done  service  in 
Worcester  Cathedral,  England,  and  perhaps  given  to  this  Cathe- 


Since  iuiblishi;u;  Ihe  above  Mr.  Boiui  has  becoiiiL-  Preiiuer  of  the  Colony. 


88 


CROSSING   THE  ANCIENT  COLONY  BY  RAIL 


dral  by  Kin-  John  with  his  many  muniliccnccs  to  St.  Wiltstein. 
This  fact  makes  one  look  with  renewed  interest  upon  the  little 
church,  as  Worcester  Cathedral  is  a  particularly  interesting;  and 
beautifully  situated  old  fane.' 

Soon  after  leaving  Whitbourne  we  reach  Brigus  Junction. 
From  here  runs  another  branch  of  the  railway  to  the  seaport. 
Brigus.  Carbonear,  Harbor  Grace,  and  Brigus  are  all  important 
fishing  stations,  situated  by  the  small  harbours  around  the  larger 
water      Conception  Bay. 

The  sea  views  ami  scenery  about  Conception  Bay  are  very 
fine.  In  the  distance,  seaward,  are  the  numerous  high,  bold 
headlands,  sharply  outlined  against  the  sky.  While  stretching 
out  at  the  mouth  of  the  Bay  are  the  famous  Bell  Isle  and  Kelly's 
Isle. 

On  Bell  Isle  is  one  of  the  most  wonderful,  and  richest  iron 
deposits  in  the  world.  The  ore  can  be  picked  up  from  the  sur- 
face, and  thrown  into  the  hold  of  the  ships  lying  at  the  piers. 

The   friend    who  told    the    interesting   anecdotes   of   Trinity 


NOTK  J, -NOTES    BY    CROSS   COUNTRY    TRIP,  MAY.   i8oq. 

-The  St.  John's  papers  are  procured  here,  and  are  read  with  much  interest  (or 
an  account  of  the  railroad  wreck  To  the  amazement  of  all  only  a  casual  mention 
is  made  of  it  in  a  morning  issue  following  the  disaster.  All  felt  certain  that  their 
friends  in  St.  John's  would  be  much  concerned,  but  now  the  probability  is  that  not 
one  word  wdl  reach  a  friend  upon  the  mainland.  Had  all  been  killed  or  seriously 
injured  there  is  no  knowing  when  correct  information  would  have  reached  them. 

These  questions  arise  because  of  a  remark  heard  to  the  etfect  that  this  event 
is  not  likely  to  bj  known  away  from  the  scene  o'  the  disaster,  for  the  Reids  own  the 
telegraph  hne  and  control  all  channels  of  information  and  would  suppress  all  news 
not  favorable  to  the  railway.  This  may  be  incorrect,  but  the  fact  remains  that  this 
presents  a  fair  illustration  of  whJl  the  possibilities  are  of  a  monopoly  or  union  of 
monopolies  contiolhng  not  alone  tlie  railroads,  and  suppressing  all  news  by  which 
the  people  may  know  of  impositions  practised  upon  them,  but,  from  indications  of 
the  times,  it  wiM  not  b(^  long  betore  tlie  press  will  also  fall  inti,<  ilie  hands  of  mon- 
opolies and  trusts,  and  even  the  fiei  distribution  of  books  bo  governed  by  ruling 
bodies  preventing  all  freedom  ct  thought. 

89 


TO  THE  OLD  CAPITALS  BY  THE  NEW  WAY 


J 
rt 
'J 
3 


CROSSING   THE  ANCIENT  COLONY  BY  RAIL 

Bay  now  volunteers  to  t.-l!  a  story  of  the-  happenings  at  Concep- 
tion Bay.  whKh  appears  in  more  ways  than  one  very  much  like 
a  "whale."  It  comes.  l,(;wever,  from  a  i^ooA  source,  and  is  at 
least  amusing;.' 

Some  years  ago  a  fishing  craft  wis  lying  in  Conception  Bay 
with  hawser  and  light  anchor  holding  her  to  the  land,  when  a 
big  whale  was  seen  coming  toward  her,  with  mouth  wide  open 
ready  to  seize  a  good  till  of  caplin,  which  were  running  thick  by 
the  shore.  As  the  whale  came  up  lie  paid  no  attention  to  the 
hawser,  which  he  caught  in  his  mouth.  But  as  he  proceeded, 
the  anchor  was  drawn  in  until  it  caught  around  his  jaw.  Feeling 
this,  he  made  a  turn  which  closed  the  rope  around  his  neck. 
Then  in:  made  off  v^^ith  rope,  anchor,  and  schooner  for  the  mouth 
of  the  bay.      In  his  excited   state  he  ran  upon  some  rocks  which 

NOIK3     -NOTKS    HV    CKOSS    COUNTRY     1  k  1 1'.  JU  1.  Y,   1900. 

'At  Bell  Isle  the  Strikes  arc  in  propress  at  the  iron  mines.  There  were 
fifteen  hutulreJ  men  lab()unIl^'  there.  Today  there  are  but  five  hundred.  Capital 
has  won  this  tunc  because  it  did  not  require  Labour.  Labour  is  as  apt  to  win  :n  the 
ne.xt  time  of  trouble  because  Capital  c.innot  do  without  it. 

It  IS  not  the  just  wage,  but  how  much  the  markets  can  be  forced  to  pay  for 
either  one  of  their  products,  that  is  the  question.  While  the  ini;i.,tl,n  //en,',  the 
fisherman  proprietor  and  the  fishermen  farinei,  is  not  considered  in  this  new  phase 
of  economic  conditions  for  Newfoundland. 

One  thousand  f.irnier  fishermen  leave  those  ranks  of  the  small  proprietors  who 
have  been  the  bone  and  sinew  of  the  State  the  Nation-builders  -  and  join  the 
ranks  of  the  labournif;  classes,  not  only  to  become  mere  labourers,  but  also  to 
t;row  into  a  political  and  economic  force  to  be  reckoned  with.  Here,  as  elsewhere, 
the  class  of  the  '.;/■;/. ,^', //  ///(//.  although  numerous,  and  the  builders  of  industrial  and 
moral  fabrics  of  the  country,  will  become  less  and  less  important. 

Under  such  conditions  the  permanent  home  gradually  becomes  less  a  thing  of 
certainty.  Altho'igh  this  time  the  labourer  may  return  to  his  fisheries  or  his  farm, 
when  the  nc.\t  difficulty  between  Labour  and  Capital  arises  he  may  win  and  from  that 
time  forward  be  perm.niently  joined  to  the  ranks  of  labour. 

In  exterminating  the  home,  the  ver\  foundations  of  the  State  and  Nation  are 
undermined,  .md  these  permanent  homes,  which  are  the  outcome  of  a  condition  of 
numerous  proprittorships.  and  in  which  collectively  consists  the  vitality  and  force 
of  the  Nation,  cease  to  be  the  ethical  harmonious  power  which  it  is  their  mission 
to  be. 


91 


TO  THE  OLD  CAPITALS  BY  THE  NEW  WAY 


0) 


a 

H 


CROSSING   THE  ANCIENT  COLONY  BY  RAIL 


turned  him  around  again,  and  in  doing  this  a  half  hitch  was 
mad;'  in  the  hawser  around  his  '.jil.  This  completely  secured 
him  to  the  craft,  and  away  he  w':r.:  c  irc-'-ing  about  until  finally 
exhausted  he  ran  upon  .i  bar,  and  was  secured  by  the  fishermen 
—  an  unexpected  prize. 

At  Manuels  and  at  Topsails,  the  last  stations  of  im'oortance 
before  arriving  in  St.  John's,  the  scenery  is  very  beautiful.  Here 
are  rushing  rivers,  and  pretty  brooks;  their  bold,  craggy  banks 
winding  among  rich  sylvan  glades,  and  jutting  tree  faced  hill- 
ocks. Here  one  sees  fine  specimens  of  matted  solid  blocks  of 
the  typical  Newfoundland  spruce  grove  so  thick  and  firm  that 
they  might  be  walked  upon,  so  closely  intertwined  that  no 
storm  could  penetrate  them.  And  then  there  are  the  pretty 
opens,  where  dew  and  rain  and  sun  can  have  their  way  ;  where 
the  flocks  can  find  food.  And  there  are  the  dingles  and  the 
dells,  through  which  arc  the  glinipses  of  the  sea.  It  is  really 
enchanting  today  in  its  quiet  beauty,  and  makes  one  long  to 
choose  some  fair,  gentle,  suminer  day  to  ramble  about  the  beau- 
tiful spots  withcjul  care  or  thought,  except  for  Lhe  joy  of  it  all.' 

The  new  approach  to  St.  John's,  at  the  end  of  the  Cross 
Country  journey,  brings  us  to  another  striking  feature  of  the 
peculiar  Colony.  On  every  side  is  seen  what  appears  to  be  a 
very  prosperous  section  of  country.  Indeed,  from  some  distance 
back  one  is  struck  with  the  indications  of  thrift  in  agricultural 
matters.     And  now  this  becomes  more  and  more  manifest  in  the 

NOTE  4.    -NOTES    HY  CROSS  COUNTRY    TKAIN.   MAY     1815.1. 

'  A  grand  sight  is  to  be  seen  in  Ccnccption  Bay.  Drift  ice,  and  icebergs  of 
the  smaller  order.  Some  ii  close  contact  with  the  track,  others  as  far  as  the  eye 
can  see  in  fact,  as  far  out  us  Cape  St  Francis.  It  is  learned  that  tvvt)  schooners 
are  jammed,  one  outside  ot  Bell  Isle,  which  is  surrouiided  by  h^rgs. 


93 


CROSSING   THE  ANCIENT  COLONY  BY  RAIL 

abundance  of  the  ripenin,  crops,  the  well  kept  enclosures,  and 
farm  buddmgs.  and  in  the  homes  of  the  families  -  very  many  in 
good  taste,  and  good  repair,  and  every  way  indicating  abundance, 
prospenty,  and  industry. 

Our  thoughts  turn  to  the  abandoned  farms  of  other  parts  of 
America  :  of  thf  farm  mortgages  ;  the  lessening  of  ownership 
by  the  occupants  :  the  increasmg  distaste  for  rural  life,  the  till- 
ing of  the  soil  and  the  keeping  of  flocks. 

Nearly  a  decade  has  passed  since  the  publication  of  •'  Amer- 
ican Farms."  The  developments  of  these  intervening  years 
have  only  brought  greater  strength  to  our  data,  and  increased 
significance  and  seriousness  to  the  contentions  formulated  in 
that  \'olunic'. 

The  typical  American  farmer  is  each  year  becoming  more 
extinct.  His  influence  is  becoming  less  and  less  felt  in  the 
national  affairs.  Among  the  fertile  valleys  and  pretty  hills  in 
the  milder  climate  of  New  England  he  has  ceased  to  be  a  sh.rlow 
of  power. 

They,  who  were  first  to  found  a  nation  which  was  reared 
and  nurtured  upon  these  very  farms  into  a  vigorous  and  sublime 
spectacle  of  citizenship  and  government  ;  self-contained  and 
powerful  in  all  the  necessities  of  being  and  the  principles  of  right 
and  justice  among  the  family  of  nations,  have  ceased  to  be. 
Their  farms  deserted  :  the  land,  so  valuable  in  this  now  over- 
crowded country,  teeming  with  life,  run  to  waste. 

He  who  stops  to  consider,  and  realises  the  extent  of  this 
awful  calamity  which  has  at  last  come  upon  the  great  nation  - 
the  United  States  of  America  -  the  loss  of  the  typical  American 
farm,    and    the    typical    American    farmer,    is    appalled    by    the 

95 


TO  THE  OLD  CAPITALS  BY  THE  NEW  WAY 

immensity  ol  it  and  the  results.  Results  felt  in  the  tenement 
districts  of  the  crowded  cities  and  manufacturing  centres  of 
America,  where  the  cries  of  distress,  sin.  suffering,  ever  grow 
louder  and  louder,  and  criuje  more  tierce.  Those  vile  dens 
where  all  that  makes  a  human  being  human  is  lacking;  where 
the  irresponsible  and  nomadic  class  is  ever  increasing.  Here 
see  the  result  of  the  desertion  of  those  homes  upon  the  beau- 
tiful and  historic  hills  of  New  England.  And  the  power  of  those 
now  tlirown  into  the  vortex  of  the  teeming  cities  is  turned  into 
the  cries  of  despair,  and  the  triumphant  yell  of  the  modern  Huns 
and  Vandals,  predicted  by  Macaulay. 

But  the  delightful  journey  is  at  an  end  ;  St.  John's  is  reached. 


*  ' 


THE  ARRIVAL  AND  FIRST  IMPRESSIONS 


::;1 


•  I' 


'     ',1*    "v  ■    i  *'' 


c 
3 


''I 


o 
> 


if 


I    M 


I    ,' 


TO  THE  OLD  CAPITALS  BY  THE  NEW  WAY 


THE  ARRIVAL  AND   FIRST  IMPRESSIONS 


On  entering  the  city  of  St.  John's  by  the  Cross  Country 
train,  one  is  much  impressed  by  the  advancement  and  cultiva- 
tion evidenced  about  him.  and  the  indications  he  sees  of  an 
enterprising  and  prosperous  people.  The  suburban  residences 
are  very  fine,  in  fact,  some  of  them  mansions;  all  displaying 
taste  and  refinement,  as  well  as  v^^ealth. 

The  entrance  to  the  city  is   made  directly  upon  the  site  of 
that  memorable  spot  frequently  mentioned  in  the  annals  of  the 
French  and   English  wars-  Fort  William.     In  fact  most  of  the 
immediate  neighbourhood  is  historical.     A  few  rods  away  to  the 
right    is  Government   House  i  the  residence  of  the  Governor  of 
the   Colony,,  and  St.  Thomas  Church,  with   Pall  Mall  very  de- 
lightfully sweeping  in  between.     A  little  farther  along  the  same 
way  IS    the    Colonial    Building,  where     he   Governm....    -^f   the 
country  meets  for  law  making.     To  the  south  is  one  of  the  fi  zest 
most  picturesque,  and  safest  harbours  in  the  world,  and  beyond' 
rising  many  hundred   feet,  is  South  Side  Hill,  and  a  little  to  the 
left,  that    historic  place.   Signal   Hill.     Between  these  hills  are 
the    Narrows,   the   nn.   entrance  to  the   harbour.      At   the    right 
ot  the  Narrows,  upon  the  end  of  South  Side  Hill,  is  a  portion  of 
Old    Fort  Amherst,  and   the  light-house  in  present    use.     On  the 
opposite    side  of  the    Narrows    is    the    remaining    part  of   Fort 
Frederick,  and,  m  close  proximuy  to  this,  the  signal  station    a 
very  important  structure,  which  signals  the  approach  of  ships 
from   sea. 


98 


a 


I 

I 

I 


THE  ARRIVAL  AND   FIRST  IMPRESSIONS 


TO  THE  OLD  CAPITALS  BY  THE   NEW  WAY 


The  two  prccionunant  elements  which  govern  the  Hfe  of  the 
people  here  at  the  present  time  are  at  once  observed,  tlie  great 
fleet  of  vessels  lyin^;  at  anchor  in  the  harbour  and  at  the  wharves, 
and  the  great  number  of  churches  in  clusters,  and  scattered 
about  all  over  the  city.  Oni;.  representing  the  active,  daring 
energy  of  the  people,  the  other,  their  spiritual  .iiid  higher  aspi- 
rations and  hopes. 


Crosbic  Hotel 

We  find  good  accommouation  at  a  hotel  overlooking  the  har- 
bour, with  South  Side  Hill.  Signal  Hill,  and  the  Narrows  in  full 
view.  And  here,  from  the  window,  we  inhale  the  stimulating 
air  for  many  an  hour.  And  for  many  an  hour  study  the  grand, 
inspiring  scene    in    all   its   different   aspects;    b>    all   its   brilliant 

I  GO 


? 


1    ais(,t   thuiuU-r.  circling   the   distant    h 


^Ustant  land  ;   wiic-n  thf   l,.iu 


ills,  die   in   the 
•"^    flashes    into  view  the   ,.eaceful 


hai-bour  wuh    ,ts  boats    a   ,  .,,  .    ,  '"■"'"''"' 

of  U  all      min..    a  ■  '-'"^"n;  us  nearer   to  the   Maker 

iatu,n  or ;;;  ;::::-^'' '--■-- ------^-.-y-e. 


See; 


le  of  Sign-.!    Hil!  nnj   N:iv 


■■OA.-.  tV-:,,   f.;    ,,,,   w  rdow 


Havin,  ,a>ned  a  general  ulea  of  the  physK:a,   features  of  the 
^>ty,    Its    buildu-igs   and    environs,   we    turn    our   n..      .• 
in-onl,.       Ti  attention   to   the 

people.      The   majonty  unpress  one  by  the.r  sn.cere  and   earnest 
manner    and  possess  the  di.nuy  of  well-occup.ed,  full,  r   2!! 


lives.      After   days  of  careful   studv.  on 


-^ver  of  the  propuious    influence 


pied,  fully  rounded 
e  is  more  convinced  than 


a  nothern  climate  yields   to   th( 


lOI 


TO  THE  OLD  CAPITALS   BY  THE  NEW  WAY 


building  of  strong  races.  It  is  a  remarkable  fact  that  one  finds 
little,  almost  no,  deformity  or  disease  among  the  people  of 
this  city,  exposed  as  they  are  to  the  elements  and  a  perilous  life. 
One  may  walk  the  street  from  day  to  day  and  not  come  in  con- 
tact with  physical  degeneracy  ;  moral  vices  are  also  rare,  bring- 
ing us  to  the  conclusion  that  this  great  city  of  churches  strives 


Parliament  Building.  St.  John's 

to  build  up  the  physical  being  and  the  moral  purposes,  as  well 
as  to  mculcate  creed  and  denominational  enthusiasm  ;  watches 
over  the  purity  of  life,  as  well  as  the  organisation  of  Sunday 
schools. 

In  rambling  about,  we  come  upon  an  imposing  building  with 
a  fine  front,  having  a  heavy  row  of  Corinthian  pillars.  While 
surveying  it  a  labouring  man   passes  of  whom  we  ask  its  use. 

I02 


■ 


f 


/^"^  ARRIVAL  AND   FIRST   I 


MPRESSIONS 


assemble.  ,o  •■  roh     ,he  p.opl.  '  "-'  "'  ''•""■""ns, 

Houses  .„  „„.,,  An,enca,  ,h.  i  ""■   "'"'    *^''     ^•^"■ 

occupy  for  „.„,„.,„„^„^;;;^--~^  .^...    .n...„  ..,„ 


103 


TO  THE  OLD  CAPITALS  BY  THE  NEW  WAY 


SONG 

DEAR  OLD  SOUTH   SIDE   HILL 

The  foiulfst  Ihoimhls  of  chililhood'N  ilays 

Tw.ne  rour.ii  thee,  lU'ar  old  hill, 
Aiul  as  I   ^a/e.  thy  bare,  bleak  braes 

With  love  my  bosom  thrill. 
Ot  all  the  hills  that  stud  earth's  breast 

Ami  lc)rcij;n  countries  fill, 
I  love  thee  more  than  all  the  rest 

Oh.   dear  old   S.JUth   Side   Hill. 

CHORUS: 

Oh,  dear  old  South   Side   Hill, 

Old,   ruKKed,   scraggy  hill, 
I  look  with  pride  on  thy  sun-brown  side, 

Oh,  dear  old  South   Side   Hill, 

I   love  each   nook,    each   darkling  brook. 

Each  copse  of  russet  browi,  : 
Each  gully,  pond  and  laughing  brook 

That  tumbles  rattling  down, 
I   love   thee,   bathed   in   summer  sun. 

With   opal  light   aglow, 
Or  robed   in  wintry   garment,  spun 

From  woof  of  silken  snow, 

CHOKUS      Oh,  dear  old,  &c. 

1  've  Heen   the   hills   that  proudly  stand 

And  stretch   from   shore, 
In   many  a  bright  and   favored   land 

Far-famed  in  song  and  lore  ; 
But  oh,  there  's  none  so  dear  as  thou, 

Old,  shaggy  South  Side  Hill, 
For  thy  iron   front  and  beetling  brow 

My  soul  with   rapture  fill. 

CHOKUS;      Oh,    dear   old,   &c. 
1 04 


TO  THE  OLD  CAPITALS  BY  THE  NEW   WAY 


I've  SL-cti   Killarneys  lofty  Reck:i 

And  noble  Gailtee  Mor, 
Ben   Lomonds  r.nd   Ben  Nt-vii's  pt-ciks, 

And  Sudwdon's  Gl;  dcr   Kawr ; 
Tl-.f  lordly  Alps  and  Appeninc, 

And  Ht-rmun's  s.icnd  height. 
But  with  all  their  cha.n,s.  there's  none  l.k.-  ih..-,c 

Can  cluHT  in/  wc:.iy  .<i(,'ht. 

CHOK'US       Oh.  d.ar  oKI,  &c. 

Thou  standtst  o'er  our   harbnjrs   mouth. 

l-ike  sentry  stern  and  hoar. 
And  shield'st  lu  troni  the  storm"  South 

And  wild   At'anti:s  riar ; 
When  breakers  bianch  the  oc.-ans  crest 

And  siir^i-s  dish   thy  side. 
Withm  thy  sheU'ri'iK  arms  at   rest 
Our  ships  securcl,'  r.de. 


CHORUS       Oh,  dear  old,  &c. 


His  Lordsli.p  M    !•"    HOWLKY. 


105 


/ 


^£^.'.^^^-^    .  4>fe^y^^^^.     ^-.f^ 


^■■^J'.Pt^     "■^-^'^^     >^tW?^       ^^^uy;^^  ^^c£j^.^^  ^  I 


Ji^'^^-.(y   lPz/v    <^7^t-ir^-^-f~''*^f*^  ^<i>2y-zu^^ 


PRESS    NOTICES 


"  How  the    ,  unhappy     condition    has 
results  of  the  depression  of  the  fa 


f^e  way  in  which  u  .ay  be^:..;^.:^',:^;; ;:!:'" ''  ''''''"'-•  -  -"  - 

"  This  httle  book  belongs  to  th,.  •  n,,     . 
of  meat  as  an  egg.     It  is  a  carefunl        "^"'•""""■^  "'  "''  ^•''>-  S^''"^^''  -^''   -  as  full 
in  the  United  sStes   w  ih  the  s,        T  f  ""^^^  "'  ■^'^'^'"■""^'■'  ^'^■'~- 

writer,  and  after  a  full    les,.;  uu  n    .f    h       f  V'"'''^^  •''^'  '"  ''''  °'^-^-"  "^ '^"-■ 

taking  hold  of  agr.cu.tur.  ::2:n::."   ^1:''^:!;;  ^■'"  ^'^^^^  '-  '''--^ 

best  tici^h;  r^on::^ha:t:'g^:' ."■-;:;:  t.:  ^""""^-  '^  -^  -^"  -°-^  -^ 
pract;;i;'b:ron  •a1:;::;x;;s""h^"'^;  ' '''-''''  yo"-hou,htfu,and 

ested  in  farm  hfe  wuh   mo"    o     J     'eont"a  ',"'        "V"-^'  "^'""  '''''  ''''''  """- 
plate   ...   State -any   State --an:i:::':h       J:,^  .rr^  '"'\  '  ^^'"'^'"- 

attracting  those  who  would  stand  by  it     sJc,   >  ''"^''    °' 

your  chapters   on   ■  Intellectual   Dev  1   p..ent  '   'nd     r'  'T'T  '"^'^  '   '"■^•"  '" 
you  say  of   the    possibil.ties    in   th  J     r  sp     ts  of   A,T  !       °"'^'"'  '     '^'=" 

agricultural  Ufe  hero       North  Wale.       "^1!',^":;:""  '""    "^'^    ^'^^^'^^  '" 
"  The  author  is  an  intense  t'nthnsi-.ci       u 

cavalry  charger/'  ~  r/,,.:,,,,  ./,„,,„,  ,„■  /,■,,„,,„„„,,,  '"'"''^   ""^^   ''   '^^'"'^"1 

^houid  be  read,  not  alone  by  eve;:f:;n;::^:f;;r::  ;:::;;:;-•  ^'^  -'- 

our  national  welfare."     -  r  ■„/,>„,,„„   /.■,„■ ■  „„,/  /J,,,,  ;.. '  "'"  '"^  ^'"  '"''^■■'^^'  '" 

'•  Mr.    Elliott    ,n    h.s    book   has    probed   the    question    deerlv     .n  1 
shows  that  he  has  wr.tten  not  only  fr'on,  a  fulness  of     "w  ed'  '  bu      rl""^'  ^l 
of  feelir.g."  -  nil..!,  Ij,l,i„  /,v,„^  .y,  ,rv.  "^""wied^e,  but  from  a  depth 


107 


"  Its  title  is  very  suggestive,  viz.,  '  American  Farms,'  and  it  deals  trenchantly.  ; 

pertinently,  and  truthfully  with  what   is  fast  becoming  the  burning  question  of  the  ? 

day."   — /)'/vV/;/(7(</'v/  Mmii'iir,  ; 

"  This  book  of  Mr.  Elliott's  will  assist  the  public  in  forming  an  idea  how  the  ( 

farmers  of  America  are  driven  to  the  wall  despite  all  their  efforts,  and  that  their  ' 

farms  are  rapidly  falling  into  the  hands  of  mortgagees  and  money  brokers,"  — A'cfC 

)''ir/,'  ( 'nnsimirrs'  ./niinml. 

"  The  author's  style  is  simple,  his  language  free  from  scientific  and  technical  1 

terms,  and  his  facts  well  arranged.     We  predict  for   the   book  a  large  sale  among  ' 

all  classes,  as  it  is  both  instructive  and  interesting,  and  treats  of  the  most  popular 
and  burnmg  question  of  the  day."    -  Wntmniitli  Frci-  I'nss. 

"  The  book  is  written  in  a  clear,  plain  style,  which  proves  to  the  reader  that 
Mr.  Elliott  has  carefully  studied  the  subject.  His  arguments  carry  conviction, 
while  his  facts  are  indisputable."  -  St.  ./,,/, ii  (;/,,/„  .  I 

i 
I 

"  •  Rambles  in  Merrie,  Merrie   England,'  by  J.  Rupert  Elliott,  is  being  pub-  1 

lished  in  five  parts.     The  first  part  is  out,  and  deals  with  Jubilee  sfghts  in  London 

and  the  naval  review.     The  second  part  will  be  out  this  week.      It  is  descriptive  of  f 

trips  by  the  Thames  to  Windsor  Castle,  Richmond,  etc.,  and  the   Henley  Regatta.  e 

Part  three  deals  with  castles,  abbeys,  and  cathedrals ;  parts  four  and  five,  rambles 

in  rural  England."-—  Unlii'.ir  llmtlil.  '■ 

\ 

"  Messrs.  J.  &  A.  McMillan,  of  St.  John,  N.  B.,  have  just  completed  the  second  ^ 

part  of  Mr.  J    Rupert  Elliott's  •  Rambles  m  Merrie,  Merrie  England.'     This  consists  '•; 

of  articles  descriptive  of  a  few  delightful  trips  to  the  famous  pleasure  haunts  of  the  \ 

Thames.     As  these  booklets  have  eithe.  a  direct  or  an  indirect  reference  to  the  great  f- 

Jubilee  of  1897,  they  are  a  valuable  souvenir  of  the  greatest  event  of  our  day.     To  the  [ 

one  contemplating  a  visit  to  old  England,  they  are  just  the  thing  for  a  guide,  while  \ 

they  are  at  the  same  time  full  of  interest  to  the  home."  —  liridijilnvn  Mnnilnr. 

'• '  Rambles  in  Merrie,  Merrie  England  '  is  a  booklet  just  from  the  press  of 
J.  &  A.  McMillan.  Mr.  J.  Rupert  Elliott  is  the  author,  and  in  it  he  describes  the 
Queen's  Jubilee,  the  great  naval  review,  a  run  in  Essex  and  the  Regal  City.  The 
booklet  is  well  worth  perusal." 

"  Messrs.  J.  &  A.  McMillar.  have  printed  the  second  part  of  Mr.  J.  Rupert 
Elliott's  ■  Rambl-s  in  Merrie.  Merrie  England,'  this  part  being  largely  '  Rambles  by 
the  Thames.'  There  are  in  all  four  papers,  and  one  of  them  describes  the  Henley 
Royal  Regatta.  The  valley  of  the  Thames  is  full  of  interest  to  the  English  student, 
and  Mr.  Elliott  writes  in  pleasant  terms  of  events  social,  historical,  and  commercial 
connected  with  it,  and  with  passing  glances  at  the  lives  of  many  eminent  persons 
in  English  story.  These  rambles  have  a  connection  with  the  Jubilee  year,  of 
which  these  little  books  will  form  a  pleasant  souvenir."    -  ,SV.  ./.,/./(  Uh,hr. 

108 


hand.     Th.s  w„.  b.  foUowed  b/thJeoh:  'book    oT^^  ''"'''"•'"  ^ 

the  travels  of   Mr.  Klliott  in  Enuland  i„  th       rv  "''"'"  "^^'  ^"  'Inscribing 

■ntended  to  show  tbe  poss.b'u^:         r^to^^HnTnVa?''^^  '"''■     "^^^^  ^^  ^'- 
of  even  a  slender  purse.  H-ngland  at  a  pnce  wuhin  the   power 


'•  Mr.  Elliott 


lOQ 


•I 


PLANT  LINE 

Popular  Sea^oufeh —  —  ^ 

No'a  Scotia  CauR  iJJ"''"  ""■'  ^'"*"'  ^t^'es 


BOSTOIV  al7ZuF7x"  '""'"  '"^^ 


"^O    CHAIMGES 


HAWKESBURV, 


FERS 


CHARLOTTETOWM, 


^'  "  DOWNING,  /Jgent    -      ^: 
'^'  ^   CHIPMAN.  Manage, 


and  SVD/VIEV  T," 


-       ;       "       ■       -   HAUFAl  N.  S 


a 


fmm^ 


Elliott,   J  H 


Co7„ 


*c.^ 


2l2/,25 


